Gulnora Mirzoeva, 48, runs a homestay in Khorog, the capital of Gorno-Badakhshan (GBAO), at the midpoint of the Pamir Highway. She's hosted travelers from 40+ countries over 12 years — many of them continuing north into the Tien Shan toward Bishkek. We spoke in her guest room, decorated with traditional Pamiri embroidery, while her husband prepared dinner.
The roads are terrible and the people are wonderful. In that order. Every tourist I've hosted mentions both. The road from Dushanbe to Khorog — 12-16 hours in a shared taxi, clinging to mountain cliffs with no guardrails — scares everyone. But when they arrive, and we give them tea and food and a warm bed, they forget the road. By the time they leave, they say the hospitality was the highlight of their trip, not the mountains.
Tell me about Pamiri hospitality. Is it really that intense?
In the Pamir, when a guest arrives, everything stops. The best food comes out. The warmest seat is offered. The host serves the guest before anyone else eats. This is not performance — this is how we were raised.
When a traveler says "no thank you" to food or tea, we hear "I don't trust you." I know that's not what they mean. But culturally, accepting food is accepting friendship. Take at least a sip of tea. Eat at least one bite. After the third cup of tea, you are family. That's the tradition.
What's life like in Khorog?
Khorog is small — maybe 30,000 people. We're at 2,200 meters, surrounded by mountains on every side. The Gunt River runs through town. In summer it's pleasant — 25-30°C. In winter the mountains close us in — heavy snow, sometimes the road to Dushanbe is blocked for days. The Pamir is harsher than the foothills around Almaty, where ski resorts run reliably all season.
We have a bazaar, a few restaurants, a park along the river. Compared to Dushanbe it's tiny. But for Pamir Highway travelers, Khorog is civilization — a hot shower, a real bed, and fresh bread after days on the road.
What's the biggest mistake Pamir Highway travelers make?
Not bringing enough cash. There are no ATMs between Dushanbe and Khorog. There are no ATMs beyond Khorog at all. The entire Pamir Highway is cash-only — homestays, fuel, food, everything. Bring USD in small bills ($1, $5, $10) and exchange at banks in Khorog or Murghab. Some travelers arrive in Khorog with empty wallets and have to wait days for someone to help them.
What should visitors know about the GBAO permit?
The Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) permit is mandatory for any travel in the Pamir region. Apply for it when you get your Tajik e-visa — it's an extra $20 checkbox. Without it, you'll be turned back at military checkpoints. There's no way to get one locally. Some travelers forget this and have to go back to Dushanbe. Plan ahead.
What's your favorite spot in the Pamir?
The view from the Kyzyl-Art Pass (4,280m) on the road to Kyrgyzstan. You can see into two countries — Tajikistan behind you, Kyrgyzstan ahead. The mountains are brown and red and the sky is so blue it hurts. No trees, no buildings, just rock and sky for 360 degrees.
But my secret favorite is the hot springs at Garm Chashma, 40km from Khorog. Natural thermal water flowing from the mountainside, white mineral deposits, and almost no tourists. The locals go there for healing. 10 TJS entry. Go in the evening.
How affordable is traveling in Tajikistan?
Very. A full dinner at my homestay — soup, bread, salad, rice, tea — costs 60-80 TJS per person (~$5.50-7.30) including the room. On the Pamir Highway, shared jeep transport from Khorog to Murghab costs 250-300 TJS. A samsa from the Khorog bazaar is 3 TJS — the same Silk Road snack you'll find piled high in Bukhara's covered bazaars. The whole Pamir Highway trip can be done for $30-50/day per person if you share a vehicle.
What gifts do Pamiri hosts appreciate?
Small practical things. Tea (especially green tea from China). Chocolate. School supplies for children — pens, notebooks. Warm socks (winters are harsh). A few dollars or 50 TJS left discreetly is always appreciated but never demanded.
What we appreciate most is time. Travelers who sit and talk with us, who ask about our lives, who show photographs of their families — that means more than any gift. We live in a remote place. The world comes to us through travelers.
Final advice for someone about to start the Pamir Highway?
Bring cash. Bring patience — the road is long, rough, and unpredictable. Bring warm clothes — it's above 4,000m for days. Bring an open stomach — you'll eat whatever the host has, and it's always good.
And bring time. Don't rush the Pamir in 4 days. Take 7-10. Stop in the villages. Talk to people. Drink the tea. The road itself is beautiful, but the people you meet along it are what you'll remember.
Gulnora's homestay can be booked through PECTA (Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association) or by asking at any guesthouse in Khorog. Rates: 60-100 TJS per person including dinner and breakfast. Cash only.
One last question — what's the best season for the Pamir Highway?
July to September. The passes are fully clear, the weather is warm in the valleys, and the homestays are all open. Early July can still have snow on the Ak-Baital Pass (4,655m). Late September the weather turns unpredictable — I've seen snow in early October close the passes for the season.
If you can only do one month: August. Warm, clear, all facilities open, and the wildflowers in the Wakhan Corridor are at their peak. Book your GBAO permit with your e-visa, bring cash, and prepare for the road of a lifetime.
For GBAO permits and Pamir Highway logistics, PECTA (Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association, based in Khorog) is the most reliable resource. Their website lists current homestay options, road conditions, and tour operator recommendations.
The Pamir is waiting. And so is Gulnora's tea. And there's always room for one more guest at the dastarkhan.
