Winter in Tongariro: Snow, Ski Season, and the Alpine Crossing Nobody Expects
Everyone tells you to visit Tongariro in summer. Do the Alpine Crossing in December, they say. Wait for clear skies. Wear sunscreen.
They're not wrong. But they're missing something incredible. Because Tongariro in winter — June through October — is a completely different park. And I'd argue it's the better one.
Why Winter Changes Everything
Tongariro's three volcanoes — Ruapehu (2,797m), Ngauruhoe (2,287m), and Tongariro (1,978m) — sit on a plateau at about 1,100m elevation. In summer, it's tussock and volcanic rock. In winter, it's a snow-covered alpine landscape that wouldn't look out of place in the European Alps.
The transformation is dramatic. The brown volcanic desert turns white. The Emerald Lakes freeze over (yes, they freeze — the mineral content gives the ice an eerie green tinge). Ngauruhoe's cone gets a perfect snow cap that makes it look even more like Mount Doom. And the entire vibe shifts from "busy tramping destination" to "quiet, serious mountain environment."
Winter temperatures at base level (National Park Village, 800m) hover around 0-8°C. At the Alpine Crossing's high point (Red Crater, 1,886m), it can hit -10°C with wind chill. This is not summer hiking with a jacket. This is genuine winter mountaineering.
Skiing on a Volcano
The signature winter experience is Whakapapa Ski Area on Mount Ruapehu — New Zealand's largest ski field and one of the few places in the world where you ski on an active volcano.
The Numbers
Lift passes: NZD 119/day for adults (~$73 USD), NZD 75 for youth
Season: Usually late June to late October
Terrain: 550 hectares, 30+ named runs, highest lift at 2,300m
Skill level: Everything from gentle learner slopes to gnarly off-piste chutes
Snow reliability: Decent natural snow plus extensive snowmaking. The 2025 season saw good base depths by July.
The skiing itself is solid — not Queenstown's Remarkables in terms of terrain variety, but the experience of looking down a run with an active volcanic crater behind you and a plateau stretching to the horizon is something no other ski area can offer.
Turoa Ski Area on Ruapehu's south side has higher-altitude skiing (up to 2,322m) and generally better snow late in the season. Lift passes are the same price. Some locals buy a combined pass and ski whichever side has better conditions on any given day.
Practical Ski Tips
Accommodation: Ohakune (south side, for Turoa) is the better ski town — more restaurants, bars, and rental shops. National Park Village (north side, for Whakapapa) is closer to Whakapapa but quieter.
Rentals: Full ski/board rental starts at NZD 50/day (~$30). Powderhorn Chateau in Ohakune and several shops on NP Village's main road.
Road access: The mountain road to Whakapapa gets icy. Carry chains or rent them at the base — NZD 25/day.
Volcanic hazard: Yes, you're skiing on an active volcano. Ruapehu erupted in 2007 (a lahar, not lava). The ski area has an eruption warning system. This sounds insane. It kind of is. That's part of the appeal.
The Winter Alpine Crossing
Here's where it gets serious. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing in winter is not the same hike as in summer. DOC (Department of Conservation) officially reclassifies it as an alpine route requiring:
Ice axes and crampons (mandatory, non-negotiable)
Alpine experience (this is not a learn-on-the-go situation)
Full winter mountaineering gear (multiple layers, waterproof everything, emergency bivvy)
Navigation skills (the trail markers get buried in snow; you need to read the terrain)
A realistic assessment of your abilities (people die on this crossing in winter)
I'm not trying to be dramatic. Winter conditions on the Alpine Crossing regularly produce whiteouts, extreme wind chill, and avalanche-prone slopes. SAR (Search and Rescue) extracts multiple hikers every winter who underestimated the conditions.
If You're Qualified
That said — if you have genuine alpine experience, the winter crossing is extraordinary. The Emerald Lakes in their frozen state, the snow-plastered crater walls, the complete silence on a calm winter day at 1,800m — it's a different world from the summer conga line of 1,000+ daily hikers.
Guided options: Several outfitters offer guided winter crossings for NZD 350-500/person (~$213-305) including gear. Adventure Outdoors and Adrift Tongariro are the main operators. If you don't have your own alpine gear and experience, this is the only responsible way to do it.
If You're Not
Do the Tama Lakes Track or Silica Rapids Track instead. Both are lower-elevation walks (below the snowline in most winters) that still showcase the volcanic landscape in its winter mood. Tama Lakes in winter, with snow-dusted Ngauruhoe reflected in the water, is one of the most beautiful things I've seen in New Zealand.
Events and Festivals
Winter brings a different social scene to the Tongariro region:
Ohakune Mardi Gras (late June): Season-opening party with live music, ski film screenings, and everyone dressed inappropriately for the cold. Fun, chaotic, very New Zealand.
National Park Ice Breaker (July): A community festival in National Park Village with market stalls, hot chocolate, and fireworks. Small-town charm.
Turoa Season Closing (late October): End-of-season party on the mountain. Spring skiing in t-shirts if you're lucky.
What to Pack
For Skiing
Ski/snowboard gear (rent locally if you don't have it)
Thermal base layers (merino wool, not cotton)
Waterproof outer shell
Goggles and helmet
Sunscreen (yes, even in winter — UV reflects off snow)
For Winter Hiking
Everything above, plus:
Crampons and ice axe (for the Alpine Crossing)
Gaiters
Emergency bivvy bag
Headlamp with spare batteries
Map and compass (don't rely on phone GPS in winter)
For Hanging Around Town
Warm layers (evenings drop below 0°C regularly)
A good book for the lodge fireplace
Cash for the Ohakune meat pie shops (some don't take cards)
Seasonal Food
Ohakune's winter food scene punches above its weight:
The Cyprus Tree: Wood-fired pizzas and craft beer. The mushroom pizza is excellent. NZD 22-28 (~$13-17).
Powderhorn Chateau restaurant: Fine dining (by small-town NZ standards) with a fireplace and mountain views. Mains NZD 32-45 (~$20-27).
Eat Takeaway: The best meat pies in the region. NZD 7 (~$4). Steak and cheese. Trust me.
Mountain Kebab: Late-night post-ski doner kebabs. NZD 14 (~$9). Exactly what you need.
National Park Village has fewer options — the Station Cafe for burgers and the Schnapps Bar at the Chateau Tongariro for fancy drinks with volcano views.
Crowd Levels
Here's the real selling point. Summer sees 100,000+ people attempt the Alpine Crossing annually — on peak days, 1,000+ hikers on the same 19.4km trail. It can feel like a queue.
Winter? The ski areas get busy on weekends (especially school holidays in July), but the trails are empty. I did the Tama Lakes walk on a Wednesday in August and saw one other person. The entire feel of the park changes — from tourist attraction to genuine wilderness.
Sample 5-Day Winter Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive Ohakune. Settle in, explore town, dinner at The Cyprus Tree.
Day 2: Ski or snowboard at Turoa (or Whakapapa). Full day on the mountain.
Day 3: Tama Lakes winter walk (lower elevation, no alpine gear needed). Hot springs in the evening at Tokaanu Thermal Pools (30 min drive, NZD 10 / ~$6).
Day 4: Second ski day, or guided winter Alpine Crossing (weather dependent).
Day 5: Silica Rapids morning walk, visit DOC Visitor Centre at Whakapapa, depart.
The Honest Assessment
Winter Tongariro is not for everyone. The weather can be genuinely grim — days of cloud, rain at the base, and snow higher up. The ski areas occasionally close due to wind or volcanic conditions. And the Alpine Crossing in winter is a serious undertaking that requires real mountaineering skills.
But if you want to see this landscape in a way that 90% of visitors never do — snow on the volcanoes, frozen emerald lakes, quiet trails, and the surreal experience of skiing on an active volcano — winter is the time. The crowds disappear. The prices drop. And the volcanic plateau reveals a side of itself that summer never shows.
