Zurich in Winter: Christmas Markets, Fondue Trams, and Frozen Lake Magic
Let me be upfront about something: winter Zurich is not cheaper than summer Zurich. Switzerland is expensive year-round, and the Christmas season adds premium pricing to hotels and restaurants. But winter Zurich has something that summer Zurich doesn't — a kind of Alpine coziness that the Swiss call "Gemutlichkeit," combined with Christmas markets that are genuinely among Europe's best. If you're exploring the region, is Switzerland's French-speaking rival.
I visited in early December and spent four days eating fondue, drinking Gluhwein, and walking through streets that looked like a jewelry box.
The Christmas Markets
Zurich runs several Christmas markets from late November through December 23.
Christkindlimarkt at Zurich HB (Main Station)
The biggest market, set inside the main train station — a soaring 19th-century hall. The centerpiece is a massive Christmas tree decorated with Swarovski crystals (reportedly worth over 2 million CHF). Over 150 stalls selling handmade gifts, Swiss chocolate, ornaments, and food. If you're exploring the region, Interlaken is the adventure capital of the Swiss Alps.
Open daily from late November through Christmas Eve. Free entry. Gluhwein: 8-10 CHF.
Wienachtsdorf at Sechselautenplatz
An outdoor village of wooden chalets next to the opera house, with a fondue chalet, an ice rink, and stalls selling everything from raclette to Swiss wood carvings. The atmosphere here is excellent — the lake and the old town lights as a backdrop. If you're exploring the region, Lucerne is a picturesque Swiss lake city just 45 minutes away.
Ice skating: about 10 CHF including skate rental.
Niederdorf Christmas Market
Smaller, more intimate, in the Old Town's narrow lanes. Better for unique gifts than mass-produced items. The medieval setting — stone buildings, narrow alleys — makes the fairy lights particularly effective. If you're exploring the region, Munich is Germany's gateway to the Alps.
The Fondue Tram
Between October and March, a specially converted tram trundles through Zurich's streets while passengers eat cheese fondue inside. 75 CHF per person including fondue (moitie-moitie: half Gruyere, half Vacherin), wine, and the ride.
Book well ahead at fondue-tram.ch — it sells out. The tram route takes about 2 hours and passes through the Old Town, along the lake, and through residential neighborhoods. Through the windows, you watch the city go by while dipping bread into melting cheese. It's absurd and wonderful.
Winter Fondue in Zurich
Fondue season runs roughly October through March. In Zurich:
Le Dezaley — the classic, serving traditional moitie-moitie fondue for about 32 CHF. Cozy, small, no-fuss. Reservation essential.
Swiss Chuchi at Hotel Adler — more tourist-friendly but genuinely good. ~30 CHF for fondue. Central location in Niederdorf.
Fondue Beizli — seasonal pop-up fondue restaurants appear around the city in winter. Check local listings.
Fondue etiquette: if you drop your bread in the pot, tradition says you buy the table a round of drinks (or, in some versions, kiss your neighbor). Dip and twist to catch the cheese threads.
What the City Looks Like in Winter
Bahnhofstrasse — Zurich's 1.4 km luxury shopping street — is lined with Christmas lights from late November. The displays are elegant rather than garish (this is Zurich, after all). The Sprungli chocolate shop at Paradeplatz stays lit and busy, and a box of Luxemburgerli makes a perfect Swiss gift.
The Old Town streets in Niederdorf are narrow enough that the lights create a canopy overhead. Combined with the stone buildings and the smell of raclette from street vendors, it's remarkably atmospheric.
Lake Zurich in winter is grey and still — a different beauty from the summer sparkling blue. The Alps across the lake are snow-covered and visible on clear days. Even the Badis (public bathing areas) have their winter appeal — a few hardy locals still swim in the 4°C water.
Day Trip: Uetliberg Mountain
Zurich's local mountain (871 meters) is reachable by S-Bahn train in 20 minutes from the main station (covered by Zurich Card or zone ticket). In winter, the summit offers panoramic views of the snow-covered city, the lake, and the Alps.
If there's enough snow, the winter walking trails are maintained. The summit restaurant serves fondue with views. The "Planetenweg" (Planet Trail) from Uetliberg to Felsenegg takes about 2 hours and follows a scale model of the solar system.
Winter Weather Reality
December-February: average -1 to 4°C. Snow is possible but not guaranteed in the city (more reliable at higher elevations). Grey, overcast days are common. Daylight hours: about 8 in December.
Packing: warm coat, layers, waterproof shoes, hat, gloves. If you're walking a lot (and you should be — it's the best way to see the Christmas markets), warm feet are essential.
What's Open in Winter
Everything. Unlike some seasonal destinations, Zurich is a year-round city. All museums, restaurants, and attractions operate normally. The Kunsthaus, Swiss National Museum, and Fraumunster are excellent rainy-day options.
The main limitation: lake swimming and outdoor dining are off-limits (unless you're Swiss and therefore immune to cold).
Budget Tips for Winter
All the standard Zurich budget tips apply (supermarket restaurants, free fountains, walk the center). Winter additions:
Christmas market Gluhwein is 8-10 CHF — bring a thermos of your own to markets if budget is tight
The fondue tram is expensive but replaces a dinner cost — so 75 CHF for fondue + entertainment is actually reasonable
Museums are better value in winter because you're inside anyway
Hotel prices in January-February (post-Christmas) drop 20-30% from December peaks
Sample Winter Day
Time
Activity
Cost
9AM
Breakfast at hotel/Migros
0-12 CHF
10AM
Swiss National Museum
10 CHF
12PM
Lunch at Coop self-service
14 CHF
1PM
Walk Bahnhofstrasse + Sprungli
0-18 CHF
2PM
Fraumunster (Chagall windows)
5 CHF
3PM
Lindenhof viewpoint + Old Town walk
Free
4PM
Christmas market browsing + Gluhwein
10-20 CHF
6PM
Fondue dinner at Le Dezaley
~45 CHF
8PM
Niederdorf Christmas market
Free-15 CHF
Total
~84-134 CHF
Winter Zurich is expensive. But the combination of Christmas markets, fondue culture, Alpine views, and that peculiarly Swiss quality of everything being clean, functional, and precisely organized makes the expense feel less painful than it should. You're paying for quality, and in winter, the quality is exceptional.
