17 Ghent Tips: How to Visit Belgium's Best-Kept Secret Like a Local
I've been to Ghent four times now, and every trip has taught me something new. The first time, I didn't buy the CityCard and overpaid for everything. The second time, I only ate in Patershol and missed the street food. By trip four, I'd cracked the code. Here are the 17 tips that make the difference. If you're exploring the region, is Belgium's other medieval canal city.
Trains from Brussels Midi station run every 15 minutes and cost about 10 EUR. From Bruges, it's 25 minutes. Ghent is one of Europe's easiest day trips, but — and I can't stress this enough — it deserves at least one night. If you're exploring the region, Amsterdam is the Dutch capital just hours north.
2. Ghent-Sint-Pieters Is Not the Center
The train station is 2 km from the historic center. Take tram 1 to Korenmarkt (3 EUR, 15 minutes). Walking is fine but eats into your time.
3. The Center Is Car-Free
Ghent's historic core banned cars in 2017. It's entirely pedestrian and bike territory. If you're driving, use the Park + Ride facilities at the edge of the city. If you're exploring the region, Paris is a quick train ride to the French capital.
Money
4. The CityCard Gent Math Works
The CityCard Gent (38 EUR/48h) includes:
All museums (MSK, SMAK, STAM, Design Museum, Gravensteen, Belfry)
One canal boat trip
Public transit
Do the math: Gravensteen (12) + Altarpiece (16) + Belfry (10) + boat (8) + SMAK (12) = 58 EUR. The card saves 20 EUR and you haven't even used the transit yet. If you're exploring the region, London is connected by Eurostar via Brussels.
Buy it at the tourist office or online.
5. Ghent Is 20-30% Cheaper Than Bruges
Same medieval beauty, similar food, but Ghent's restaurant prices are noticeably lower and the tourist markup is less aggressive. A good lunch: 12-18 EUR. A Gruut beer: 4-5 EUR.
Food & Drink
6. Thursday Is Veggie Day
Ghent was the first city in the world to officially promote Donderdag Veggiedag. Many restaurants offer special vegetarian menus on Thursdays. If you're plant-based, plan your visit to include a Thursday.
7. Frites from a Frituur, Not a Restaurant
Belgian frites from a proper frituur (chip shop) are a different food from restaurant fries. Frituur Jozef on Vrijdagmarkt is the local favorite. A cone with stoofvleessaus (beef stew sauce) costs 3-4 EUR. This is essential eating.
8. Cuberdons Are Ghent's Candy
Purple, nose-shaped, raspberry-flavored candies that are uniquely Ghent. Buy them at the Groentenmarkt from the candy vendors. About 2-3 EUR for a bag. They don't travel well (they dry out) so eat them fresh.
9. Waterzooi — Get the Fish Version
Tourist restaurants push the chicken version because it's cheaper to make. But the original Ghent waterzooi is fish — a creamy freshwater fish stew with vegetables. Het Pakhuis and Groot Vleeshuis both do the traditional fish version. 14-18 EUR.
10. Jenever at 't Dreupelkot
Ghent's most famous bar serves only jenever (Belgian gin) — over 200 varieties in a room barely large enough for 15 people. Located in a narrow alley near Gravensteen. Shots from 3 EUR. The barman will help you choose based on your taste preferences.
Sightseeing
11. The Altarpiece Needs the Audioguide
Don't try to save 2 EUR by skipping the included audioguide at St. Bavo's. The Ghent Altarpiece is dense with theological symbolism that's invisible without explanation. The audioguide turns a "pretty painting" into a 2-hour intellectual experience.
12. St. Michael's Bridge at Blue Hour
The three towers of Ghent — St. Nicholas', the Belfry, St. Bavo's — align perfectly from this bridge. At blue hour (the 30 minutes after sunset), all three are illuminated against a deep blue sky. It's the single best photo you'll take in Ghent. Free.
13. Gravensteen Has a Weird Sense of Humor
The 12th-century castle takes itself less seriously than you'd expect. The audioguide has comedic elements, and the torture instruments exhibition is presented with a darkly funny tone. The rampart views are excellent. Budget 1-1.5 hours.
14. Skip the Boat, Walk the Canal
The canal boat tour (8 EUR, 40 minutes) shows you the Graslei and Korenlei waterfront — which you can see just as well by walking along the quay for free. Save the money for beer or frites. If it's raining heavily, take the boat. Otherwise, walk.
Timing
15. Patershol Is an Evening Destination
During the day, the medieval quarter behind Gravensteen is quiet — just cobblestones and closed restaurant doors. At dinner time, it transforms. Restaurant windows glow. The streets fill with the smell of cooking. The cobblestones reflect the warm light.
Book a dinner in Patershol and arrive on foot from Gravensteen side. The approach through the narrow lanes is half the experience.
16. Ghent Festival (Gentse Feesten) Is 10 Days of Chaos
Held in mid-July, the Gentse Feesten is one of Europe's largest cultural festivals — 10 days of live music, street theatre, and general mayhem. 1.5 million visitors attend. If you want the festival experience, it's incredible. If you want quiet medieval Ghent, avoid this week entirely.
16.5. The Illuminated Walk at Night
Ghent has a permanent light installation system that illuminates its major buildings and bridges after dark. The route from St. Michael's Bridge through Graslei, past Gravensteen, and along the canal is designed to be walked at night — each building lit to highlight its architectural features. It's free, it takes about 45 minutes, and it's one of the best nighttime walks in Europe.
The city invested heavily in this lighting scheme, and it shows. The illumination is tasteful — warm whites and subtle accents rather than garish colors. On a clear night, the reflections in the canal water double every building.
17. Come Back in December
Ghent's Winter Wonderland runs from late November through early January. Christmas market along the Korenmarkt, ice skating, mulled wine, and the medieval buildings lit up against winter darkness. Much less crowded than the Bruges Christmas market and equally atmospheric.
The best tip I can give you about Ghent? Come with low expectations. Every person I've sent there has come back saying the same thing: "I wasn't expecting it to be that good." The city doesn't oversell itself. It doesn't need to. It has Van Eyck, a moated castle, the best frites in Belgium, and a bridge where three medieval towers line up like they planned it.