Best Time to Visit
December to March (summer, 15-25°C, hiking) or June to September (skiing)
Language
Spanish (some English in tourist areas, German/Italian influences)
Currency
Argentine Peso (ARS) — bring USD cash for best exchange rates at 'cuevas'
Time Zone
ART (UTC-3) year-round — Argentina does not observe daylight saving time
Airport
San Carlos de Bariloche Airport (BRC)
Population
135,000 (city proper)
Climate
Oceanic/cold semi-arid, cool summers (8-22°C), cold snowy winters (-2 to 5°C), rain concentrated May-August
Safety Rating
Generally Safe (Level 1) — one of Argentina's safest tourist destinations
National Park
Nahuel Huapi — Argentina's oldest national park (1934), 7,050 sq km of lakes, forests, and mountains
A 60 km scenic driving loop around Lago Nahuel Huapi and Lago Moreno with jaw-dropping views at every turn. Free to drive (rental car $25,000-40,000 ARS/day or guided tour $15,000-25,000 ARS). Key stops: Punto Panoramico, Llao Llao Peninsula, Bahia Lopez beach, and Cerro Campanario chairlift. Best on a clear day. Allow 4-6 hours with stops.
A chairlift to one of the best viewpoints in Patagonia — a 360-degree panorama of seven lakes, Isla Victoria, and the Andes. Chairlift: $8,000 ARS (~$8 USD). Open 9AM-6PM. The ride takes 8 minutes. A confiteria (cafe) at the summit serves hot chocolate and pastries. Located on the Circuito Chico, 17 km from Centro. National Geographic rated it one of the world's best views. Allow 1.5 hours.
A vast glacial lake (557 sq km) surrounded by snow-capped Andean peaks. Boat excursion to Isla Victoria and the Arrayanes Forest (myrtle trees with cinnamon-colored bark): $30,000-45,000 ARS (~$30-45 USD), full day. Departures from Puerto Panuelo. Kayaking, fishing, and swimming available in summer. The deep blue water turns emerald in sheltered bays. Allow a full day for the boat trip.
Bariloche is Argentina's chocolate capital — Calle Mitre (the main street) has 20+ artisan chocolate shops. Must-visit: Rapanui (huge variety, free samples), Mamuschka (European-style truffles), and Rapa Nui (the original). A 500g box of artisan chocolates: $5,000-10,000 ARS ($5-10 USD). The Easter Chocolate Festival (April) features a 10-ton chocolate egg. Allow 2 hours for a tasting stroll.
South America's largest ski resort with 120 km of runs, 39 lifts, and 1,150 meters of vertical drop. Ski season: June to October. Day pass: $45,000-65,000 ARS (~$45-65 USD). Equipment rental: $20,000-30,000 ARS/day. Night skiing on Fridays. In summer, the chairlift operates for hiking ($12,000 ARS) with Refugio Lynch and Refugio Frey as popular trekking destinations. 20 km from Centro.
A hidden gem — Bariloche pioneered Argentina's craft beer movement. The 'Ruta de la Cerveza' (Beer Route) stretches along Route 40 with 10+ breweries. Must-try: Berlina, Blest (Argentina's first brewpub, 1995), and Manush. Flights: $4,000-6,000 ARS for 4 tasters. Many have stunning lake or mountain views. The annual Beer Festival (January) draws thousands. Allow an afternoon.
A classic Patagonian hike to a mountain refuge at the base of a cathedral-like granite spire reflected in Laguna Toncek. The trail is 12 km one way (moderate-difficult, 5-6 hours up). Free with national park entry. The refugio serves meals and offers bunks ($15,000 ARS/night). Day hikers should start early and carry food and water. Best December-March. One of South America's top day hikes.
Fly from Buenos Aires (AEP/EZE) to BRC (2 hours). Taxi from airport $8,000-10,000 ARS. Bring USD cash for the blue dollar rate.
Flight and airport transfer(2.5 hours)
Aerolineas Argentinas or Flybondi ($80,000-200,000 ARS). Airport is 14 km from Centro. Taxi $8,000-10,000 ARS. Exchange USD at cuevas on Calle Mitre for 30-50% more pesos
Check-in and money exchange(1.5 hours)
Stay in Centro for walkability. Exchange $100 USD bills at cuevas (informal exchange) on Mitre for the blue dollar rate. This makes everything remarkably affordable
Chocolate walk on Calle Mitre(2 hours)
Free to browse. 20+ chocolate shops. Rapanui (biggest variety, free samples), Mamuschka (European truffles), and Rapa Nui (the original). Buy a 500g box ($5,000-10,000 ARS / $5-10 USD)
Dinner at Alto el Fuego(1.5 hours)
Patagonian grill. Cordero patagonico (lamb, $12,000 ARS), Argentine steak ($10,000 ARS). Skip the tourist traps on Mitre — this is where locals go. Reservations recommended
Drive the 60 km loop around the lakes for jaw-dropping views at every turn.
Start the Circuito Chico drive(1 hour)
Rental car $25,000-40,000 ARS/day. Or guided tour $15,000-25,000 ARS. Head west from Centro along Lago Nahuel Huapi. The road hugs the lakeshore through forests
Cerro Campanario chairlift(1.5 hours)
$8,000 ARS (~$8 USD). 8-minute ride to one of the best viewpoints in Patagonia — 360-degree panorama of seven lakes, Isla Victoria, and the Andes. Confiteria at the summit for hot chocolate ($3,000 ARS) and pastries. National Geographic rated it one of the world's best views
Llao Llao Peninsula walk(1 hour)
Free. Walk the Llao Llao forest trail past the iconic Llao Llao Hotel. The arrayanes (myrtle) forest with cinnamon-bark trees is unique to this region
Lunch at Punto Panoramico(1 hour)
Restaurant on the Circuito Chico with lake views. Trucha (trout, $8,000 ARS), craft beer ($3,000 ARS). Simple but the view is the attraction
Bahia Lopez beach and Colonia Suiza(2 hours)
Free. Stop at Bahia Lopez for a lakeside walk (turquoise water, mountain backdrop). Then continue to Colonia Suiza — a Swiss settlement with Wednesday and Sunday curanto (Patagonian earth-oven feast, $12,000 ARS)
Dinner at El Boliche de Alberto(1.5 hours)
Iconic parrilla (grill). Provoleta ($4,000 ARS, grilled cheese appetizer), bife de chorizo ($12,000 ARS). Cash only. Two locations — the Bustillo one has lake views
Full day on the water exploring the vast glacial lake.
Boat excursion from Puerto Panuelo(6 hours)
$30,000-45,000 ARS (~$30-45 USD). Full-day trip to Isla Victoria (hiking trails, beach) and the Arrayanes Forest — myrtle trees with cinnamon-colored bark found nowhere else. The forest inspired the trees in Bambi (Disney visited). Book at Turisur or Victoria Island
Isla Victoria hiking(1.5 hours)
Guided walks through the island's forests with panoramic lake viewpoints. The old nursery has interesting botanical history. Small beach for swimming (brave the cold water — 12-15°C even in summer)
Arrayanes Forest walk(1 hour)
Short boardwalk through the unique forest on the Quetrihue Peninsula. The trees' cinnamon bark is smooth and cool to the touch. Quiet, ethereal atmosphere
Dinner at Cassis(1.5 hours)
Upscale Patagonian cuisine on Quaglia Street. Trucha with almond crust ($14,000 ARS), deer medallions ($16,000 ARS). Wine list focuses on Patagonian producers. Reservations essential
A slower day exploring Bariloche's pioneering craft beer scene.
Morning lakeside walk(1.5 hours)
Free. Walk the Costanera (lakeshore path) from Centro toward Playa Bonita. Mountain reflections on calm mornings. Look for condors soaring above
Ruta de la Cerveza (Beer Route)(3 hours)
Breweries along Route 40 (Km 1-15). Berlina (excellent IPAs, flights $4,000-6,000 ARS), Blest (Argentina's first brewpub since 1995), and Manush (innovative flavors). Many have lake or mountain views. Designate a driver or take taxis
Lunch at Cervecería Blest(1 hour)
Argentina's OG craft brewery. Scotch ale ($3,000 ARS), Patagonian lamb stew ($8,000 ARS). The taproom overlooks the lake. Since 1995
Free afternoon(2 hours)
Rest, browse Mitre shops, or visit Museo de la Patagonia ($3,000 ARS) in the Centro Cívico — Patagonian natural and cultural history in a beautiful log-cabin building
Dinner at Butterfly(1.5 hours)
Patagonian cuisine on the Costanera. Wild boar ($14,000 ARS), smoked trout ($10,000 ARS). Lake views from the terrace. Reservations
South America's largest ski resort — spectacular in both winter (skiing) and summer (hiking).
Drive to Cerro Catedral(30 minutes)
20 km from Centro. Free to enter the base area. Parking $2,000 ARS
Summer: Chairlift and hiking(4 hours)
Chairlift $12,000 ARS. Ride up for panoramic views. Hike to Refugio Lynch (easy, 2 km) for lunch with mountain views. Or continue to Refugio Frey trailhead. The wildflower meadows in January are spectacular
Winter: Skiing/snowboarding(5 hours)
Day pass $45,000-65,000 ARS (~$45-65 USD). Equipment rental $20,000-30,000 ARS/day. 120 km of runs. Night skiing Fridays. The views while skiing are extraordinary — glacial lakes below, Andes peaks around
Lunch at La Linda Base(1 hour)
Base lodge restaurant. Mountain burgers ($6,000 ARS), craft beer. Outdoor deck with peak views
Return to Bariloche(30 minutes)
Dinner at Familia de Weiss — German-Argentine cuisine. Smoked trout ($10,000 ARS), fondue ($15,000 ARS for two). The German heritage of Bariloche is strong
One of South America's most scenic roads — 110 km through seven lakes to Villa La Angostura.
Drive Route 40 north(6 hours total with stops)
Free. 110 km to San Martin de los Andes. Paved but narrow. No guardrails. Must-stops: Lago Correntoso, Lago Espejo, Lago Villarino. Gas up before leaving — no stations until Villa La Angostura
Villa La Angostura stop(2 hours)
Charming alpine village at the halfway point. Walk the main avenue, browse chocolate shops (smaller and quieter versions of Bariloche's). Lunch at Tinto Bistro — Patagonian tapas ($6,000-10,000 ARS), natural wine. Lake and mountain views
Lago Correntoso viewpoint(30 minutes)
Free. Stunning turquoise lake surrounded by araucaria trees. Short walk from the highway pullout. One of the most photographed spots on the route
Option: Continue to San Martin de los Andes(2 hours)
The full route ends at this charming town on Lago Lacar. Walk the lakefront, lunch at Corazon Contento ($8,000-12,000 ARS). Return the same route — equally stunning in reverse light
Return to Bariloche(2 hours)
Dinner at La Marmite — fondue and raclette ($18,000 ARS for two). Cozy Swiss-inspired. Reservations
Final morning in Patagonia.
Sunrise at Playa Bonita(1 hour)
Free. 15-minute drive from Centro. The lake mirrors the mountains in the still morning air. Bring coffee
Breakfast at Rapanui Cafe(45 minutes)
Hot chocolate ($3,000 ARS), medialunas (Argentine croissants, $2,000 ARS). The chocolate is made in-house
Last chocolate shopping(30 minutes)
Grab boxes from Mamuschka or Rapanui for home ($5,000-10,000 ARS per box). Also look for dulce de leche and regional jams
Airport transfer(30 minutes)
Taxi $8,000-10,000 ARS. Allow 2 hours before domestic flights. The airport is small and efficient
US, Canadian, UK, EU, and Australian citizens can enter Argentina visa-free for 90 days. Indian citizens need a visa — apply at the Argentine consulate (processing: 2-4 weeks). Since 2024, US citizens must pay a reciprocity fee online ($160 USD, valid 10 years). Passport must be valid for the duration of stay. No COVID vaccination requirements.
Direct flights from Buenos Aires (AEP/EZE) to BRC: 2 hours, $80,000-200,000 ARS (~$80-200 USD) on Aerolineas Argentinas or Flybondi. The airport is 14 km from Centro — taxi $8,000-10,000 ARS. A rental car is highly recommended for the Circuito Chico and regional exploration. Via Bariloche buses from Buenos Aires: 22 hours ($50,000-80,000 ARS, sleeper seats). Roads can be icy in winter.
The Route of the Seven Lakes (Route 40, 110 km) between Bariloche and San Martin de los Andes is one of South America's most scenic drives. Free. Allow a full day with stops. The road is paved but narrow with no guardrails. Must-stops: Lago Correntoso, Lago Espejo, and Villa La Angostura. Gas stations are sparse — fill up before departing. Best in summer (December-March).
The number one money mistake tourists make: using credit cards or ATMs at the official exchange rate. Argentina has a parallel 'blue dollar' rate that gives 30-50% more pesos per dollar. Bring clean, new $100 USD bills and exchange at 'cuevas' (informal exchange houses) on Calle Mitre. Western Union transfers also give a favorable rate. This effectively makes Bariloche very affordable.
Bariloche has outstanding budget options. Campsites on the lake: $5,000-10,000 ARS/night ($5-10 USD). HI hostels: $10,000-20,000 ARS/night. Even mid-range cabanas (cabins with kitchens): $30,000-50,000 ARS/night. Cook your own meals — supermarkets are well-stocked and affordable. The Feria de las Artesanias on the lake has cheap empanadas ($1,500-2,000 ARS) and regional products.
Argentines eat late — dinner starts at 9-10PM. Restaurants open for dinner around 8PM. Lunch is 1-3PM. Tipping: 10% is standard (leave cash on the table). The 'cubierto' (bread/table charge, $1,000-2,000 ARS) is normal and not a scam. Patagonian lamb (cordero patagonico) and wild boar (jabali) are local specialties. A good steak dinner costs $15,000-25,000 ARS ($15-25 USD).
Bariloche weather is famously unpredictable — locals say you can experience four seasons in one day. Always carry layers, a waterproof jacket, and sunscreen (the ozone layer is thinner at this latitude, so UV is intense). Wind can be extreme, especially near lakes and ridges. Check mountain weather before hiking. Trails can be snowy into November and from April onward.
Travel Guides20+ artisan chocolatiers on one street, Argentina's original craft brewery, and seven lakes colored like melted gemstones. Bariloche's triple obsession, explored properly.
StoriesTurquoise lakes, artisan chocolate, craft beer with mountain views, and a chairlift ride that National Geographic called one of the world's best. My week in Argentina's Swiss Alps.
Travel GuidesBoth sit on stunning glacial lakes. Both have world-class skiing. One costs a fraction of the other and has better chocolate. Here's the honest comparison.
