18 Darjeeling Tips from a Repeat Visitor Who's Made Every Mistake
Three trips to Darjeeling. The first was a masterclass in poor planning — missed the sunrise, overpaid for tea, and got stranded during a political bandh. The second was better. The third was close to perfect.
Here's the cheat sheet.
Getting There
Bagdogra Airport (IXB) is 67 km from Darjeeling — a 3-4 hour uphill drive. Direct flights from Delhi, , and Mumbai. The drive itself is scenic once you start climbing.
2. Shared jeep over private taxi for the authentic experience.
Shared jeep from Bagdogra: INR 250-400 per person, 3.5 hours. Private taxi: INR 2,500-3,500. The shared jeep is squeezed but social. You'll share with locals who'll point out views you'd miss alone.
3. The toy train from NJP is magical but commit to 7 hours.
The full Darjeeling Himalayan Railway from New Jalpaiguri takes 7 hours. INR 500-1,500. Book first class on irctc.co.in weeks ahead. If you can't spare the time, the 2-hour Darjeeling-Ghum joy ride is the abbreviated version.
Tiger Hill and Sunrise
4. Skip Tiger Hill if visibility is below 50%.
The shared jeep costs INR 300-400 per person and leaves at 4 AM. But in monsoon season or foggy mornings, you'll see nothing but white. Check with your hotel the night before — they know the likely conditions. If it's iffy, sleep in and catch sunrise from Observatory Hill in town instead.
5. The best sunrise months are October-November and March-May.
Post-monsoon (October-November) has the clearest skies. Spring (March-May) has blooming rhododendrons plus clear views. December-February can be clear but bitterly cold. June-September is monsoon — save your INR 400.
6. Arrive before the crowd, not with it.
The jeep convoys create a parking lot at Tiger Hill. Some visitors walk up (it's 11 km from Darjeeling, most people start at 3 AM — not for everyone). If you drive, ask your driver to leave at 3:30 AM instead of 4 AM. You'll get a better spot.
Tea
7. Buy from estates, not Mall Road shops.
Happy Valley, Makaibari, and Glenburn sell directly and guarantee authenticity. Mall Road tea shops vary in quality. Nathmulls on Laden La Road is the trusted exception — operating since 1931.
8. Know the flushes before you buy.
First flush (March-April): Light, floral, expensive. INR 1,000-5,000 per 100g.
Second flush (May-June): Muscatel character, rich. INR 500-2,000 per 100g.
Autumn flush: Budget-friendly, good daily drinking tea. INR 200-500 per 100g.
Always taste before buying. Free samples are standard.
9. Happy Valley tea estate tour is the best value activity in town.
INR 100-150 for a guided factory tour including tasting. 45 minutes. You'll understand why Darjeeling tea costs what it does — the terrain, the hand-plucking, the altitude.
Logistics
10. There's no Uber or Ola in Darjeeling.
Taxis are organized through the stand near Chowk Bazaar or arranged by your hotel. A full-day sightseeing circuit (Tiger Hill, Batasia Loop, Ghoom Monastery, tea estate): INR 1,500-2,500 by private taxi.
11. Dress in layers. Seriously.
Morning: 8°C. Afternoon: 20°C. That's a 12-degree swing in six hours. Base layer + fleece + windbreaker. Peel off as the day warms.
12. Carry cash. ATMs are unreliable.
Darjeeling's ATMs run out, especially on weekends. Withdraw what you need in Bagdogra or Siliguri before the drive up. INR 5,000-8,000 in cash is comfortable for 3-4 days.
13. Check for political bandhs before booking.
Gorkhaland-related strikes periodically shut down transport and businesses. Check local news (search "Darjeeling bandh" on Google before your trip dates). Hotels usually remain open during bandhs but you'll be stuck.
Food and Drink
14. Kunga for momos, Sonam's for thukpa, Glenary's for everything else.
Kunga Restaurant on Gandhi Road: steamed chicken momos, INR 80-120. Sonam's near Chowrasta: thukpa (noodle soup), INR 80-100. Glenary's Bakery: the all-purpose cafe for pastries, pizza, and mountain views.
15. The INR 15 chai from street vendors beats any cafe.
Aluminum kettle, coal stove, plastic stool. The chai tastes like the mountains.
Common Mistakes
India's other iconic toy train runs to Shimla in Himachal Pradesh.
16. Don't try to do Darjeeling as a day trip from anywhere.
Bagdogra is 3-4 hours away. NJP is 7 hours by toy train. A day trip means 6-8 hours of travel for 3 hours in town. Minimum 2 nights. Ideal: 3-4 nights.
17. Don't visit during monsoon (June-September).
Heavy rain, landslides, road closures, zero mountain visibility. The toy train may be cancelled. Flights to Bagdogra get grounded. Everything that makes Darjeeling special is invisible in monsoon.
18. Don't forget Ghoom Monastery.
Everyone goes to Tiger Hill and Batasia Loop. But Yiga Choeling Monastery at Ghum — the 15th-century Tibetan Buddhist monastery with the 5-meter Maitreya Buddha — is the most spiritually powerful place in the area. Free entry. Butter lamps, thangka paintings, and a silence that seeps into your bones. 30-45 minutes. Don't skip it.
