18 Things I Wish I'd Known Before Visiting Kotor, Montenegro
Kotor looks perfect in photos. A medieval walled town wedged between mountains and a fjord-like bay. Stone streets, Venetian palaces, cats everywhere. What the photos don't show: the 1,350 steps to the fortress with no guardrails, the cruise ship crowds that can triple the old town's population in an hour, or the fact that Montenegro isn't in the EU and uses the euro anyway.
Here's what I learned across two visits.
Getting There & Around
1. Tivat Airport Is Tiny but Close
Tivat Airport (TIV) is 8 km from Kotor — 10 minutes by taxi (€10-12). It has limited routes (mostly seasonal charters), but if a flight lands there, it's the easiest option. Podgorica Airport (TGD) is 90 km away, 1.5 hours by car.
Alternatively, Dubrovnik Airport (Croatia) is 1.5-2 hours south. You'll cross an international border — bring your passport.
2. Montenegro Uses the Euro (But Isn't in the EU)
Montenegro adopted the euro unilaterally. It's not in the EU, not in the Schengen zone, but uses EUR. US, UK, Canadian, and Australian citizens don't need a visa for stays up to 90 days. Your passport must be valid for at least 3 months beyond your stay.
3. The Old Town Is Tiny — Don't Drive In
The walled old town is entirely pedestrian and about 5 minutes' walk from end to end. Parking outside the walls costs €1-2/hour and fills up fast in summer. If you're staying inside the walls, arrange luggage drop-off with your hotel.
4. Bus to Dubrovnik Is Easy
Direct buses run 2-3 times daily (2-2.5 hours, €15-20). You'll cross the Croatian border — passport required. Alternatively, shared transfer vans (€20-25/person) pick up from your accommodation.
The Fortress Climb
5. Start the Fortress Hike at 7AM (Summer)
The climb to the Castle of San Giovanni is 1,350 steps up medieval fortification walls to 280m above town. Entry: €8 in summer (free off-season). The climb takes 45-60 minutes up.
In summer (June-August), temperatures hit 35°C+ by 10AM. There is virtually no shade on the route. Start at 7-8AM or wait until 5PM. The views — the entire Bay of Kotor spread below, mountains rising from the water — are among the most spectacular on the Adriatic.
6. No Guardrails, No Mercy
The fortress steps are uneven stone, some quite narrow, with low or nonexistent walls on the outer edge. It's a genuine scramble in places. Not suitable for very young children or anyone with vertigo. Wear proper shoes (not sandals), carry 1-2 liters of water per person, and watch your footing — the stone is slippery when wet.
7. There's a Free Backdoor Route
A well-known but unsigned trail starts from the north side of the old town (near the Škurda River) and joins the fortress path above the pay point. It's steeper, rougher, and less maintained, but free. Ask at your accommodation for directions. I'd still recommend the main entrance — the €8 goes toward maintaining the trail.
Cruise Ships
8. Check the Cruise Ship Schedule
This is critical. Kotor's old town has maybe 1,000 permanent residents. When 2-4 cruise ships dock simultaneously (up to 10,000+ passengers), the narrow streets become impassable. Check the Kotor Port Authority schedule online.
On heavy cruise days: explore the old town before 9AM or after 5PM when passengers return to ships. Use the daytime for the fortress hike, Perast, or the Bay of Kotor by boat.
Food & Drink
9. Eat Outside the Old Town Walls
Restaurants on the main squares inside the walls charge tourist prices. Walk to the konobas (taverns) outside the walls — especially along the waterfront north of the old town or in the Dobrota neighborhood.
Konoba Scala Santa (inside the walls but hidden): Fresh seafood at reasonable prices. Konoba Cesarica (Dobrota): Grilled fish, octopus salad, local wine. Mains €8-14.
A seafood dinner for two with wine costs €30-40 in Kotor vs. €50-70 in Dubrovnik.
10. Try Njeguški Steak and Pršut
Montenegrin food is hearty Balkan-Mediterranean. Njeguški steak is stuffed with ham (pršut) and cheese from the mountain village of Njeguši — it's the national dish. Pršut (dry-cured ham) is Montenegro's answer to prosciutto and arguably as good.
The cheese from Njeguši is a semi-hard smoked cheese sold at market stalls for €10-15/kg. Excellent souvenir.
11. Montenegro Has Good Wine
Local wines: Vranac (robust red, like a rough-edged Malbec) and Krstac (dry white). A glass at a local bar costs €2-3. A bottle at a restaurant €10-18. Plantaze is the biggest producer. For boutique, try wines from Sipcanik (they have cellar tours near Podgorica).
12. Espresso Costs €1-1.50
Coffee in Kotor is cheap and good. Stand at the bar or sit at a café — the price difference is minimal (unlike Italy). The old town has several good cafés on the squares.
Day Trips & Activities
13. Perast Is Unmissable
A tiny Baroque village 12 km northwest, with stone palaces lining a waterfront facing two islets. Take a water taxi to Our Lady of the Rocks — a man-made island with a beautiful church (€1 entry, €5 boat round trip). The story: locals sank stones and old ships for centuries to build the island around a rock where they found an icon of the Virgin Mary.
Reachable by bus from Kotor (€1, 30 min) or car. The Perast Museum in the Bujović Palace (€5) has good maritime history. Allow 2-3 hours.
14. The Bay Drive Is One of Europe's Best
Rent a car (from €25/day) and drive the road circling the Bay of Kotor. Drive counterclockwise for the best views. Stop at Perast, Risan (Roman mosaic ruins), and Herceg Novi (a fortress town at the bay's mouth). The road is narrow and winding — experienced drivers only. Allow a full day.
15. The Ladder of Cattaro Is the Hidden Hike
An old Austrian military road with 25 switchbacks climbing 900m above Kotor to Krstac village. Starts at the north gate of the old town. More strenuous than the fortress but with even better views. Allow 3-4 hours round trip. Bring more water than you think you need. Best in spring/autumn.
Budget & Logistics
16. Kotor Is Excellent Value
Montenegro is significantly cheaper than Croatia.
Item
Kotor
Dubrovnik
Restaurant dinner (per person)
€12-20
€20-35
Beer (bar)
€2-3
€4-6
Espresso
€1-1.50
€2-3
Hotel (mid-range double)
€60-100/night
€120-200/night
Fortress entry
€8
N/A (walls €35)
17. Best Months Are May-June and September-October
July-August: 35°C+, cruise ships daily, everything crowded and more expensive. May-June and September-October: warm (22-28°C), manageable crowds, better prices, better hiking conditions.
18. Register Your Stay
Montenegro requires visitors to register with the local tourism office within 24 hours of arrival. Hotels do this automatically. If you're staying in a private apartment, ask your host to confirm they've registered you. Technically, failure to register can result in a fine (though enforcement is inconsistent).
Packing Essentials
Hiking shoes with grip (fortress steps, Ladder of Cattaro)
Water bottle (2L minimum for fortress hike)
Sunscreen and hat (Mediterranean sun is strong)
Swimsuit (beach breaks around the bay)
Light layers for evening (cooler at altitude)
Passport (for border crossings to Croatia)
The Bottom Line
Kotor is Dubrovnik's less-famous, less-expensive, more-intimate neighbor. The old town is smaller, the fortress climb is harder, and the cruise ships are just as overwhelming. But the value is dramatically better, the Bay of Kotor is one of Europe's most scenic waterways, and the cats — Kotor genuinely has more cats per square meter than any city I've visited — add a charm that no tourist board could manufacture.
Time your visit around the cruise ship schedule. Start the fortress hike at dawn. Eat in Dobrota. Drink Vranac wine. Drive the bay. And give it at least two nights — one is not enough for a place this layered.
For seasonal planning, our October guide explains why autumn is the bay's sweet spot. Our local interview reveals hidden spots beyond the tourist circuit. If you're exploring the Adriatic, Split and Dubrovnik complete the trio — and Corfu is just across the water.
