19 Tips for Visiting Nikko That Will Save You Time and Money at Nikko
Nikko looks simple on paper. Shrines, waterfall, lake, done. But the logistics — getting there efficiently, beating the tour groups, understanding the ticket system, knowing which food is worth seeking out — make a surprising difference between a frustrating day trip and one of Japan's best experiences.
I've been three times across different seasons. Here's everything I've learned.
Getting There
1. The Tobu Railway Is Better Than JR
The Tobu limited express from Asakusa Station to Tobu-Nikko takes 1 hour 50 minutes (JPY 2,800). Direct, comfortable, and drops you closer to the shrine area than the JR option. The JR Nikko Line from Utsunomiya is covered by the JR Pass, but requires a transfer and takes longer overall.
If you don't have a JR Pass, Tobu is the clear winner.
2. The All Nikko Pass Is Absurd Value
The Tobu All Nikko Pass (JPY 4,780 for 2 days) covers the round-trip train from Asakusa plus unlimited bus rides in Nikko. The train alone costs JPY 2,800 each way (JPY 5,600 total). So the pass saves you JPY 820 on the train and gives you free buses. If you're visiting both the shrine area and Lake Chuzenji, this is a no-brainer.
Buy it at the Tobu Asakusa Station ticket counter.
3. Take the 6:20 AM Train
The earliest Tobu limited express departs Asakusa at 6:20 AM, arriving Nikko at 8:10 AM. Tour buses from Tokyo arrive at 10-11 AM. That gives you almost two hours at Toshogu Shrine with virtually nobody there.
The morning light through the ancient cedars is ethereal. The moss-covered paths are still damp. You can hear birds instead of tour guide megaphones. This alone transforms the Nikko experience.
The Shrines
4. The Combination Ticket Saves Real Money
The Nikko Shrine Combination ticket (JPY 1,300) covers Toshogu, Rinno-ji Sanbutsudo, and Futarasan Shrine. Toshogu alone is JPY 1,300. So the combination ticket essentially gives you two extra shrines for free.
Buy it at any of the three sites. Then you can visit in any order without worrying about individual tickets.
5. Don't Rush Toshogu — It's Bigger Than You Think
Most people allocate 45 minutes and regret it. Budget 2 hours. The Yomeimon Gate alone has 508 carvings that reward close inspection — mythical creatures, Chinese sages, flowers, lions. The sleeping cat (nemuri-neko) carving and the three wise monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) are easy to miss if you're rushing.
The approach up 207 stone steps to Tokugawa Ieyasu's actual tomb at the top is physically demanding but worth it for the serene cedar forest at the summit.
6. Rinno-ji's Garden Is the Secret Weapon
Most visitors see Rinno-ji's three giant gilded Buddhas (Sanbutsudo) and move on. But the Shoyoen garden (JPY 300 extra) behind the temple is a tranquil strolling garden that's almost always empty. In autumn, the maples reflect in the pond. In winter, it's perfectly still. It's the antidote to Toshogu's sensory overload.
7. Shinkyo Bridge: Pay to Cross or Photograph for Free
The vermillion sacred bridge costs JPY 300 to walk across (one way). Or you can photograph it for free from the adjacent road bridge, which actually gives you the better angle anyway. The classic shot — red bridge over the gorge with cedars behind — is from the road, not from on the bridge.
Unless walking across a sacred bridge matters to you personally, save the JPY 300.
Lake Chuzenji & Kegon Falls
8. Go Up First, Then Come Down to the Shrines
If you're doing both the lake area and the shrine area in one day, go up to Lake Chuzenji first (8 AM bus, 40 minutes). The lake and falls are best in morning light. Come back down in the afternoon for the shrines. This also means you hit the shrines after the tour groups have started leaving.
9. The Elevator at Kegon Falls Is Worth It
The top viewing platform (free with the area access) gives you a distant view of the 97-metre waterfall. The elevator (JPY 570) drops you 100 metres through the rock to the base, where the spray hits your face and the roar fills the gorge.
Pay the JPY 570. The base view is ten times more dramatic.
10. The Irohazaka Switchbacks Are an Experience
The road up to Lake Chuzenji has 48 hairpin turns — the second Irohazaka goes up, the first comes down. Each turn is named after a character in the Japanese syllabary. On the bus, sit on the left side going up for the best views.
In autumn, the road itself is a foliage attraction. In winter, it requires snow chains. In summer, it's just a fun (if queasy) ride.
Food
11. Yuba Is Nikko's Thing — Try It
Yuba (tofu skin) has been made in Nikko since Buddhist monks popularized it centuries ago. It's served as sashimi (delicate, slightly sweet), in soba noodle soup, or in elaborate bento boxes.
Hippari Dako near Toshogu does a good yuba set from JPY 1,000. Gyoshintei (JPY 2,500 set lunch in a garden setting) is the proper sit-down option. Both are better than the generic tourist restaurants near the shrine entrance.
12. Eat Before You Go Up to the Lake
Restaurant options at Lake Chuzenji are limited and overpriced. Eat lunch in the shrine area before busing up, or bring something from a convenience store. The 7-Eleven at Nikko Station has onigiri, sandwiches, and bento that are honestly better than most lake-area restaurants.
Timing & Crowds
13. Weekdays vs Weekends: It Matters
Weekend crowds at Toshogu are significant — shoulder-to-shoulder at the Yomeimon Gate between 10 AM and 2 PM. Weekdays cut the crowd by 60-70%. If you have any flexibility, visit Tuesday through Thursday.
14. One Day or Two?
One long day works if you start early: 6:20 AM train, lake area in the morning, shrines in the afternoon, 5-6 PM train back. But it's rushed.
Two days is ideal: Day 1 for shrines and the Kanmangafuchi Jizo walk, Day 2 for Lake Chuzenji, Kegon Falls, and Irohazaka. Stay overnight at a Nikko onsen hotel (from JPY 10,000 with dinner and breakfast).
15. Kanmangafuchi Is the Crowd Escape
This riverside walk past dozens of moss-covered Jizo statues is twenty minutes from the shrine area and almost always quiet. The statues, in various states of weathering with red fabric bibs, line a path along the Daiya River. Count them going and coming back — legend says the number changes. It won't. But the atmosphere makes you want to believe.
Free. Allow 30-45 minutes.
Seasonal
16. Autumn Is the Best Season (But Time It Right)
Autumn foliage peaks at Lake Chuzenji in early-mid October, at the shrine level in late October. Check real-time koyo (foliage) forecasts before booking. The wrong week means green or brown instead of red and gold.
17. Winter Nikko Is Hauntingly Beautiful
Snow-dusted shrines, icy waterfalls, nearly empty paths. December through March brings freezing temperatures and icy steps (wear grippy shoes), but the reduced crowds and the visual impact of gold carvings against white snow make it worth the cold.
Money
18. The Actual Cost Breakdown
Item
Cost
Tobu train (round trip)
JPY 5,600 (or JPY 4,780 with All Nikko Pass)
Shrine combination ticket
JPY 1,300
Kegon Falls elevator
JPY 570
Lake Chuzenji boat
JPY 1,500
Shinkyo Bridge
JPY 300 (or free from road)
Lunch
JPY 1,000-2,500
Day trip total
JPY 9,270-11,770 (~$62-79)
19. Don't Buy Souvenirs at the Shrine Gift Shops
The shops inside the shrine complex charge 30-50% more than the Most visitors come on a day trip from Tokyo between the station and the shrines. If you want a lucky charm (omamori) from the shrine itself, fine — those are Planning an autumn visit? Read our Nikko autumn foliage guide. But general souvenirs, snacks, and crafts are cheaper elsewhere.
The For a different traditional Japan experience, consider Kanazawa have the same items at normal prices.
