The Complete Guide to Visiting Lhasa: Permits, Altitude, and the Roof of the World
Lhasa is one of the most extraordinary cities on earth. It's also one of the most logistically complex to visit. You can't go independently. You need permits. You need a guide. You need to worry about altitude in a way that's not just theoretical.
But if you do the preparation, what you get is a city where the Potala Palace towers over prayer-flag-draped streets at 3,650 meters, devout pilgrims prostrate around sacred temples, and the Himalayan plateau stretches endlessly in every direction.
Here's the comprehensive guide.
Permits: The Non-Negotiable Step
Foreign visitors cannot visit Tibet independently. Full stop. You must book through a licensed Tibetan tour agency, which arranges:
Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) — mandatory for all foreigners. Your agency applies on your behalf using your passport and Chinese visa details. Processing: 15-20 business days.
A mandatory guide who accompanies you throughout your stay.
A driver and vehicle for any travel outside Lhasa.
If you want to visit the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region areas like Everest Base Camp, you need additional permits: an Alien Travel Permit and a Military Permit (your agency handles these).
Start the process at least 6 weeks before your trip. The TTP is the bottleneck — without it, you cannot board any flight or train to Lhasa.
Getting There: Train vs. Flight
By air: Flights from Chengdu (2.5 hours), Chongqing, Xi'an, and Kathmandu land at Lhasa Gonggar Airport (LXA), 62km southwest of the city. A shuttle bus to the city takes 1 hour (30 CNY). The downside: you arrive at altitude suddenly, with no gradual adjustment.
By train: The Qinghai-Tibet Railway from Xining (24 hours) or Beijing (40 hours) is the scenic and physiologically gentler option. The train climbs above 5,000m, with supplemental oxygen available on board. The highest point (Tanggula Pass, 5,072m) offers surreal high-plateau views. Soft sleeper berths: 800-1,200 CNY from Xining.
My recommendation: train in, fly out. The gradual ascent helps acclimatization, and you get the plateau scenery. Flying out saves a day.
Altitude: The Serious Part
Lhasa sits at 3,650m. Most visitors experience some altitude symptoms:
Headache (the most common)
Shortness of breath during any exertion
Fatigue and poor sleep
Mild nausea
Acclimatization protocol:
Day 1-2: Do nothing strenuous. Walk slowly. Rest frequently.
Drink 3-4 liters of water daily.
No alcohol for the first 48 hours.
Acetazolamide (Diamox, 125-250mg twice daily) can help — consult your doctor before travel.
If symptoms worsen (confusion, persistent vomiting, chest tightness), descend immediately. This is not optional.
The altitude is manageable for most healthy adults if you respect it. Rushing is the single biggest mistake visitors make.
Where to Stay
Base yourself in the old town near the Barkhor circuit. This puts you within walking distance of the Jokhang Temple, Barkhor market, and the Potala Palace.
Budget guesthouses: 150-300 CNY/night. Mid-range hotels: 400-800 CNY. The St. Regis Lhasa is the luxury option (1,500+ CNY) with oxygen-enriched rooms — worth considering if altitude worries you.
What to See
Potala Palace
The 13-story red and white fortress that defines Lhasa's skyline. Former winter residence of the Dalai Lamas. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Entry: 200 CNY (May-Oct), 100 CNY (Nov-Apr). Strict daily limit of 5,000 visitors. Book 1-3 days ahead through your agency.
The climb up (130m elevation gain from the base) is breathless — literally. Take it slow. No photography inside the main halls. Allow 2-3 hours.
Jokhang Temple
Tibet's most sacred temple, built 647 AD. Entry: 85 CNY. The rooftop terrace offers the best close-up view of the Potala Palace across the old city. Visit in the morning when the devotional atmosphere is most intense — pilgrims prostrate outside from dawn.
Barkhor Street
The 1km clockwise pilgrimage circuit around the Jokhang. Free. Vendors sell turquoise jewelry, prayer flags, yak butter, and thangka paintings. Walk clockwise (always). Bargain to 40-50% of initial asking price.
Sera Monastery Debates
Daily from 3-5PM (except Sundays). 50 CNY. Monks debate Buddhist philosophy with dramatic clapping and gesturing. 5km north of center. No flash photography.
Namtso Lake
One of the world's highest saltwater lakes at 4,718m. 250km from Lhasa (5-hour drive). Crystal-turquoise water backed by snow-capped mountains. Only visit after 2-3 days of acclimatization. Stay overnight at Tashi Dor peninsula for sunrise. 120 CNY.
Everest Base Camp (Extension)
The north side of EBC (5,200m) is a 2-3 day road trip from Lhasa through stunning plateau landscapes. Requires additional permits. Stay at Rongbuk tent camp (5,000m) for Everest sunrise. Total trip: 4-5 days round trip. Budget: $300-500 per person for the extension.
What to Eat
Tibetan cuisine is hearty and altitude-appropriate:
Yak butter tea (bo cha): The national drink. Salty, buttery, warming. An acquired taste but excellent at altitude. 5-10 CNY.
Tsampa: Roasted barley flour mixed with butter tea into a dough. The staple Tibetan food. Basic but filling.
Momos: Tibetan dumplings filled with yak meat or vegetables. 15-25 CNY for a plate. Find them at small restaurants in the old town.
Thukpa: Tibetan noodle soup. 15-20 CNY. Warming and easy on altitude-affected stomachs.
Restaurant meals: 30-60 CNY. There are also Sichuan, Nepali, and Western restaurants in the tourist area.
Budget
Category
Cost
Guided tour (per day, shared group)
$100-150/person
Guided tour (per day, private)
$150-250/person
Accommodation
150-800 CNY/night
Restaurant meal
30-60 CNY
Potala Palace
100-200 CNY
Jokhang Temple
85 CNY
Sera Monastery
50 CNY
EBC extension (4-5 days)
$300-500/person
Tibet is expensive by Chinese standards because of the mandatory guide, driver, and vehicle. Budget travelers should join group tours to share vehicle costs. Solo travelers will pay significantly more.
Sun Protection
At 3,650m+, UV radiation is intense enough to cause burns in 20 minutes, even on cloudy days. Pack: SPF 50+ sunscreen, UV-blocking sunglasses, wide-brimmed hat, lip balm with SPF. The air is extremely dry — moisturizer is as important as your camera.
Cultural Etiquette
Always walk clockwise around temples, stupas, and prayer wheels.
Never touch or step over religious objects.
Ask before photographing monks or pilgrims.
Remove hats inside temples.
Do not discuss politically sensitive topics with locals, especially in public.
Carry your passport at all times.
Lhasa is unlike anywhere else in China — and unlike anywhere else on earth. The combination of altitude, devotion, and landscape creates an atmosphere that's genuinely transformative. But it requires more planning than any other Chinese destination. Start your permits early, respect the altitude, and give yourself time to acclimatize. The roof of the world rewards patience.
