Lamu is one of East Africa's most enchanting destinations, but it raises more questions than most. It's a car-free Muslim island near the Somali border with limited ATMs and donkey-based transport. Fair questions arise. Here are the answers.
Fly. Daily flights from Nairobi (NBO) and Mombasa (MBA) to Manda Airport (LAU) on Safarilink and Fly540. Expect to pay $120-200 one way from Nairobi, about an hour's flight. From the airport on Manda Island, a short motorboat (200-500 KES, 10 minutes) crosses to Lamu Town.
Overland from Mombasa is technically possible (6-8 hours) but involves security checkpoints and is strongly discouraged by most governments. Fly.
Q: Do I need a visa for Kenya?
Yes. Apply at evisa.go.ke at least 1 week before travel. Single entry costs $50, valid for 90 days. Processing: 2-5 business days. Visa on arrival is no longer available at most ports.
Q: Is Lamu safe? It's near Somalia...
Lamu Island itself is very safe and welcoming to tourists. The crime rate is low. The threat relates to the mainland areas near the Kenya-Somalia border, not the island.
Do not travel overland north of Lamu. Do not go to the mainland border region. Stick to the island and organized boat trips. Check your government's travel advisory for the current situation.
On the island, the biggest safety concern is tripping on the uneven stone alleys at night. Bring a flashlight.
Q: Is there a terrorism risk?
There have been security incidents in the broader Lamu County (mainland), which is why the travel advisories exist. But Lamu Island itself has not experienced incidents targeting tourists, and security presence is visible. Most embassies rate Lamu Island as a different risk level from the mainland county.
Use common sense, register with your embassy, and stay informed. But don't let the county-level advisory scare you away from a genuinely peaceful island.
Q: Are there ATMs on Lamu?
Barely. There are 2-3 ATMs (Kenya Commercial Bank, Equity Bank), and they frequently run out of cash or go offline. Bring enough KES from Nairobi or Mombasa for your entire stay.
Some upscale hotels accept cards, but most guesthouses and restaurants are cash-only. M-Pesa mobile money is widely used by locals — if you have a Kenyan SIM with M-Pesa registered, some businesses accept it.
Q: How much does Lamu cost per day?
Budget guesthouses: 2,000-3,000 KES/night ($15-23). Swahili meals at local restaurants: 300-600 KES. Dhow sailing trip: 3,000-5,000 KES per person. Fresh seafood from fishermen: remarkably affordable — lobster and crab are cheap.
A budget daily total is around $40-60. Mid-range (nicer guesthouse, more activities): $80-150. Shela village boutique stays: $150-300+.
Q: What should I wear?
Lamu is a conservative Muslim community. Both men and women should cover shoulders and knees when walking through town. No tank tops, short shorts, or revealing clothing in the Old Town.
Swimwear is fine on Shela Beach. But throw on a cover-up for the walk back through the village.
During Ramadan, avoid eating or drinking publicly during daylight hours. Alcohol is available at some hotels but not openly — there are no bars or pubs.
Q: Can I photograph people?
Always ask first. Some residents are happy to be photographed, others are not — particularly women. The carved doors and architecture are fair game. The donkeys don't seem to care either way.
Q: How do you get around without cars?
Walking and boats. That's it. Lamu Old Town has no motorized vehicles — the alleys are too narrow. Walking from one end of town to the other takes 20 minutes.
Between Lamu Town and Shela village, you can walk along the waterfront (40 minutes, scenic) or take a motorboat (200-300 KES, 10 minutes). Donkeys carry goods and occasionally passengers, but they're primarily working animals, not taxis.
Pack light. Your bags will be carried by hand or loaded onto a donkey at the dock.
Q: How do I get to Shela Beach from Lamu Town?
Three options: walk (40 minutes along the waterfront — a lovely walk), take a motorboat (200-300 KES, 10 minutes), or walk along the beach itself from the town's southern end (45 minutes on sand).
Q: What's the best thing to do on Lamu?
Dhow sailing. A half-day sailing trip on a traditional wooden dhow costs 3,000-5,000 KES per person and includes snorkeling stops and a fresh seafood lunch grilled on a sandbank. Sunset cruises are magical — the light on the water through the dhow's sail is the kind of image that stays with you.
Beyond dhow sailing: walk Lamu Old Town with a local guide (1,000-1,500 KES for 2 hours), visit Lamu Fort (500 KES), walk Shela Beach (12 km of white sand backed by dunes), and visit the Donkey Sanctuary (free, donations welcome).
Q: Is there diving or snorkeling?
Snorkeling yes, primarily through dhow trips that stop at reefs around the archipelago. Dedicated dive centers are limited compared to Diani or Watamu. The water is warm (25-29°C) and visibility is decent in the dry seasons.
Q: What's the best time to visit?
July to October and January to March (dry seasons). Avoid April to June — heavy rains make the island soggy and seas rough. The Maulidi festival (dates shift with the Islamic calendar) is the cultural highlight.
Q: How many days do I need?
Minimum 3 days. Ideal: 5-7 days. Lamu is not a place to rush — the whole point is slowing down. One day for the Old Town, one for dhow sailing, one for Shela Beach, and the rest for doing absolutely nothing constructive.
Q: What should I bring?
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Currency | Kenyan Shilling (KES) |
| Language | Swahili (Kiamu dialect), English |
| Time zone | EAT (UTC+3) |
| Airport | Manda Airport (LAU) |
| Power | 240V, UK-style 3-pin plugs |
| UNESCO status | World Heritage Site since 2001 |
| Population | ~25,000 (Lamu Town) |
| Island transport | Walking, boats, donkeys |
For the deeper architectural story, our Swahili architecture guide covers Lamu's carved doors and coral-stone history. Our monsoon season guide makes the case for off-peak travel. Zanzibar and Nairobi complete a Kenya-Tanzania circuit.
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