Tenzin Dorje came to McLeod Ganj from Dharamsala as a teenager. Fifteen years later, he runs walking tours of the Tibetan quarter and knows every alley, temple, and momo stall in this Himalayan hill town. I met him at a cafe near the Tsuglagkhang Complex on a clear October morning with the Dhauladhar range sharp against the sky.
Tenzin: This isn't really a hill station. Hill stations are about escaping heat. McLeod Ganj is about something else entirely. It's the seat of the Tibetan government-in-exile, the home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. People come for spiritual reasons, for trekking, or because they heard about a place where Tibetan monks walk the same streets as Israeli backpackers and Indian honeymooners. That mix is what makes it unique.
The altitude is only 2,082 meters — high enough for mountain views, low enough that nobody gets altitude sickness. And the Dhauladhar mountains right behind the town are some of the most dramatic peaks in Himachal Pradesh. You're drinking chai at 6 AM and there's a 4,500-meter snow peak right there, close enough to feel like you could touch it.
Tenzin: They try to see everything in one day. McLeod Ganj is tiny — you can walk end to end in 20 minutes. But it's not about covering distance. It's about slowing down. Sit in the Tsuglagkhang Complex for an hour and watch the monks debate in the courtyard. Walk the kora (circumambulation path) around the temple slowly. Eat momos at three different places and decide which is best.
Also, people come expecting to see His Holiness randomly on the street. That doesn't happen. His public teachings are scheduled — check dalailama.com. They're free but require ID registration. When he's teaching, the whole town changes energy. It's palpable.
Tenzin: (laughs) This is the question everyone asks. Tibet Kitchen on Jogiwara Road for traditional Tibetan momos — 80-120 INR for a plate, steamed or fried. Lung Ta next door is also excellent. For something different, try the cheese momos at Nick's Italian Kitchen — it sounds wrong but it works.
But honestly, the best momos are at the unnamed stall near the taxi stand that opens at 7 AM. The woman running it makes them fresh every morning. Steamed veg momos, 60 INR. The monks line up there before morning prayers. That's how you know.
Tenzin: Dharamkot. It's a 2 km walk uphill from the main square. Quieter, with yoga retreats, meditation centers, and views that make McLeod Ganj's views look modest. The Israeli cafe scene up there is its own world — shakshuka and hummus at 2,200 meters elevation.
Naddi village is even better for sunset. A 30-minute walk north. The Dhauladhar panorama from there at golden hour is the best view in the region. Free. Bring a jacket — it gets cold fast after sunset, even in October.
And the Norbulingka Institute in Sidhpur, 6 km downhill. It's a Tibetan arts center with artisans creating thangka paintings and woodcarvings. Entry is 50 INR. The Japanese-Tibetan garden inside is the most peaceful place within 20 km. Most tourists don't make the trip down. Their loss.
Tenzin: Absolutely, but go early. The trail to Triund (2,875m) is 9 km from McLeod Ganj, moderate difficulty, 4-5 hours up. The views from the ridge are panoramic Dhauladhar. But it's become very popular — weekends in October can feel crowded.
My tip: start at 6 AM, before the group trekkers. You'll have the trail mostly to yourself for the first two hours. Bring warm layers even in summer — temperatures at Triund drop to 5°C. Camping permits are 150 INR if you want to stay overnight, which I highly recommend. The sunrise from Triund is special.
Tenzin: Avoid July-August unless you enjoy landslides and leeches. Seriously. The monsoon hits hard here — heavy rain, road closures, the Triund trail becomes a mud slide. Bhagsu Waterfall is at its most powerful (spectacular but dangerous), and the roads from Dharamsala can be blocked for days.
March to June is ideal. September to November is perfect — clear skies, the monsoon green hasn't faded yet, and the Dhauladhar peaks have fresh snow. December-February is cold (0-10°C) but clear and beautiful if you don't mind bundling up.
Tenzin: A singing bowl from one of the shops on Jogiwara Road. Not the tourist ones — ask to see the hand-hammered bowls in the back. They cost 500-2,000 INR and the sound is entirely different from the machine-made ones.
Tibetan prayer flags are traditional. Thangka paintings from Norbulingka are authentic art. And honestly? Take home the momo recipe. Several Tibetan kitchens offer cooking classes for 500-1,500 INR. Lhamo's Kitchen near the temple is popular. You learn to make momos, thukpa (noodle soup), and Tibetan butter tea. The skills last longer than any souvenir.
For trekking beyond Triund, Leh Ladakh and Rishikesh are natural extensions of a Himalayan trip. And for a completely different India experience, Varanasi offers spiritual intensity on a different scale entirely.
