I showed up to Lefkada thinking it would be like every other Greek island. Ferry, white houses, sunset drinks, done. I was wrong about almost everything — starting with the ferry part.
Here's what I learned the hard way so you don't have to.
Leftkada is the only Greek island connected to the mainland by road. A floating drawbridge causeway links it to the Akarnanian coast. You fly into Aktion Airport (PVK) near Preveza, pick up your rental car, and drive across. It takes 20 minutes. The 14th-century Agia Mavra Fortress marks the entrance — you literally drive past a medieval castle to get to your island holiday.
This changes everything. No ferry schedules, no luggage logistics, no seasickness. Just drive.
The best beaches are on the west coast, 30-45 minutes from Lefkada Town on roads that twist through mountains with occasional cliff-edge moments. Public transport exists in theory — a few buses per day — but it's basically useless for beach-hopping.
Rent from the airport. Expect €30/day in summer, less in shoulder season. A small car handles everything fine, but the road to Egremni has a steep, narrow descent that requires confidence. A scooter works for the east coast but not the mountain roads.
I'm putting this bluntly because nobody warned me. The road to Porto Katsiki has hairpin turns on a cliff edge with no guardrail in places. The road to Egremni descends steeply on loose gravel. Both are single-lane with oncoming traffic.
Drive slowly. Use your horn on blind corners. And don't look at the drop — look at the road.
This beach — regularly voted one of Europe's most beautiful — has a tiny parking lot that fills by 10-11 AM in July and August. €3, cash only. Once full, they turn cars away. There's no overflow, no alternative. You just... leave.
Arrive before 9:30 AM or after 4 PM. Seriously. The 80 steps down are steep and exposed — wear proper shoes, not flip-flops. And bring shade. There are no trees, no umbrellas for rent, nothing. Just cliffs, white pebbles, and water so turquoise it looks unreal.
The 2015 earthquake destroyed the old staircase access to Egremni. The rebuilt road makes it far more accessible, but it's steep and narrow. The beach itself is 2 km of white pebbles with zero facilities. No shade, no food, no water, no lifeguard.
Bring everything. And I mean everything. I once forgot sunscreen and had to fashion a hat out of a t-shirt. Don't be me.
While everyone fights for west coast space, the east coast has calm, sheltered bays perfect for families and people who prefer swimming to cliff-descending. Mikros Gialos and Desimi Bay have organized facilities — sunbeds, tavernas, calm turquoise water. The sea temperature is slightly warmer too because it's sheltered from the open Ionian.
I spent my first three days exclusively on the west coast before a taverna owner told me about Mikros Gialos. "You're missing the easy beauty," she said. She was right.
If Porto Katsiki is too intense and the east coast is too calm, Kathisma is the middle ground. Long sandy beach (rare for Lefkada — most are pebble), organized with sunbeds and a beach bar, but big enough to always find space. Parking is easier. There's a road that goes right there. The water is the same impossible turquoise.
Leftkada has its own indigenous grape variety — Vertzami — that produces a deep red wine unique to the island. It's tannic and full-bodied, somewhere between a Cabernet and a Syrah. Most tavernas serve it as house wine for €4-6 per half-liter.
I'd never heard of it before arriving. Now I check wine shop imports for it at home. Ask for it specifically — some places default to generic Greek wine unless you request the local stuff.
Every waterfront taverna hangs octopus on lines to dry in the sun — it looks like laundry. Then they grill it over charcoal and serve it with lemon and olive oil. The texture should be tender, not chewy. If it's chewy, the taverna didn't tenderize it properly. Move on.
Best I had: Sto Molo on the Lefkada Town waterfront. €12 for a plate that convinced me octopus is a top-five food.
Leftkada is genuinely cheap for a Greek island — far more affordable than Mykonos or Santorini. A full taverna dinner with appetizers, main course, and wine runs €8-15 per person. Fresh fish is priced by the kilo (€40-60/kg), but the portions are generous.
Breakfast at most accommodations is included. Lunch is often just a gyro (€3-4) from a souvlaki shop.
After devastating earthquakes, the islanders developed a unique building technique: stone ground floors with upper stories clad in corrugated metal. It's earthquake-resistant, lightweight, and distinctive. The result is colorful buildings with a character you won't find anywhere else in Greece.
Walk the pedestrian Mela Street and look up — the painted metal facades in pinks, blues, greens, and yellows are genuinely beautiful.
Daily boat trips from Nidri harbor visit Meganisi (a quieter island with swimming caves), Skorpios (the private island formerly owned by Aristotle Onassis — you can swim offshore but can't land), and Kastos. Day cruises run €20-35 and include swimming stops.
Private boat rental starts at €100/day if you want to chart your own course. The east coast sea is much calmer than the west — ideal for island-hopping.
Most people drive past the 14th-century fortress on the causeway without stopping. Don't. It's free to enter, the views of the lagoon are excellent, and the ramparts take about 30 minutes to explore. Built by the Franks, expanded by the Venetians, used by the Ottomans. Layer upon layer of history.
The "Eric" wind makes Vassiliki Bay one of Europe's top windsurfing spots. Flat water in the morning, proper waves in the afternoon. Lessons from €35/hour. The bay faces south and the thermal wind is so reliable that competition events are held here.
Even if you don't windsurf, watching the experts from a waterfront cafe is entertainment enough.
Cards are accepted at hotels and larger restaurants, but many beach parking lots, small tavernas, and bakeries are cash-only. The Porto Katsiki parking lot is cash-only. Keep €50-100 in small bills on you. ATMs are in Lefkada Town, Nidri, and Vassiliki only.
West coast beaches have no natural shade and no umbrella rental. The sun is brutal from 11 AM to 4 PM. Bring your own beach umbrella, SPF 50, a hat, and more water than you think you need. I watched tourists in July turn lobster-red by noon because they assumed there'd be facilities.
The mountain roads and beach coves on the west coast often have no cell signal. Download offline Google Maps before you go. Tell someone where you're heading. And don't rely on your phone for navigation beyond the main roads.
Leftkada is only 35 km long and 15 km wide, with a year-round population of about 23,000. But the mountain roads make distances feel much longer. Budget 30-45 minutes to get from Lefkada Town to the west coast beaches, even though it's only 25-35 km.
A studio apartment on Lefkada costs €40-70/night. On Santorini, the same quality is €150-250. Taverna meals are 30-40% cheaper. And you don't pay for a ferry. If you want Greek island beauty without Greek island prices, Lefkada is arguably the best deal in the country.
The beach-to-value ratio is, frankly, absurd. Porto Katsiki and Egremni would charge €20 entrance fees if they were in the Cyclades. Here, they're free.
For more on Lefkada's best season, check out our guide to September on the island.
