A Week in Nha Trang: Mud Baths, Island Hopping, and 8th-Century Temples
Day 1-2: Beach and Mud
I arrived at Cam Ranh Airport (CXR), 35 km south of Nha Trang. The taxi to the hotel was 250,000 VND ($10) with Grab. The hotel — a mid-range place on Tran Phu, the beachfront boulevard — was 600,000 VND/night ($24) with a sea view balcony.
The beach was right there. Six kilometers of golden sand curving along the bay, islands visible on the horizon. I rented a sunbed (80,000 VND) and did exactly nothing for three hours. The water was 28°C. The sky was cloudless. I understood immediately why this is Vietnam's beach city.
Day 2 was Thap Ba Hot Spring. The mud bath experience is distinctly Vietnamese: you sit in a tub of warm mineral mud (250,000 VND for an individual bath, 600,000 VND for a VIP couples tub) and let the sodium silicate-rich sludge coat everything. It's warm, heavy, and smells faintly of minerals. After 20 minutes, you rinse off and move to hot spring pools.
The mud is genuinely good for skin — documented benefits, not just marketing. My skin felt different for days. Book the first morning slot (7 AM) for the cleanest mud.
Day 3-4: Islands
The four-island boat tour departs at 8:30 AM from Cau Da port. I took the budget version (250,000 VND / ~$10) knowing it would be rowdy. It was. Music blaring, a floating bar party at one stop, karaoke on the boat. But the snorkeling at Hon Mun was genuine — clear water, healthy coral, schools of tropical fish. Worth enduring the party atmosphere for.
Day 4, I went back to Hon Mun on a quieter dive operator's boat (800,000 VND / ~$32 for two dives). Different experience entirely. The dive master, a Vietnamese guy named Hung, took us to a coral wall at 18 meters with soft corals, anemones, and a resident turtle that cruised past like it owned the reef.
Hon Mun's marine protected status (Vietnam's first) is paying off. The reefs here are healthier than anything I saw snorkeling in Thailand or the Philippines.
Day 5: Po Nagar and the Pagoda
The Po Nagar Cham Towers, 2 km north of the city center, are Hindu temples built between the 7th and 12th centuries by the Cham civilization. Entry: 22,000 VND (~$0.90). The four remaining towers have intricate stone carvings and are still used for worship — I saw women in traditional dress making offerings. Sarongs are provided for visitors in shorts.
Standing in a temple older than Notre-Dame, watching incense smoke drift through carved stone doorways, felt like being in Cambodia rather than a beach city. The Cham heritage is Nha Trang's underappreciated cultural layer.
Afternoon: Long Son Pagoda. The 24m white Buddha sits atop 152 steps with panoramic city views. Free entry (donations welcome). I climbed at 5 PM and had the sunset view over the bay almost to myself.
Day 6: VinWonders
The 3,320-meter cable car ride over the bay to Hon Tre Island is spectacular regardless of what's at the other end. VinWonders is a full-blown theme park — water slides, aquarium, rides, private beach. Combo ticket 880,000 VND (~$35). One of the world's longest over-sea cable cars.
I'm not a theme park person, but the aquarium was excellent and the cable car ride alone was worth the ticket. The views of Nha Trang Bay from mid-air, the islands dotted across the blue, the city curving along the coast — spectacular.
Day 7: Food Day
I dedicated the last day entirely to eating. Banh canh cha ca for breakfast at a stall on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street (35,000 VND). Bun cha ca for lunch on Lan Ong Street (40,000 VND). Nem nuong dinner at Yen's Restaurant (55,000 VND per set). Night market seafood as a late snack — grilled prawns and squid, 150,000 VND.
Total food spend for the day: about 280,000 VND (~$11). For four outstanding meals.
Nha Trang's food doesn't get the attention of Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, but the seafood-focused local cuisine is excellent and extraordinarily cheap. The bun cha ca — rice noodles with grilled fish and a complex broth — was my favorite thing I ate in Vietnam.