Amman
Photo: Mohammad Almashni / Unsplash
Key Facts
Best Time to Visit
March to May and September to November (mild spring and autumn)
Language
Arabic (English widely spoken in tourism and business)
Currency
Jordanian Dinar (JOD)
Time Zone
Arabia Standard Time (UTC+3, no daylight saving)
Airport
Queen Alia International (AMM), ~35 km south
Population
~4 million (Greater Amman metro area)
Climate
Hot-summer Mediterranean, hot dry summers and cool wet winters, avg 18°C
Safety Rating
Generally Safe (Level 1 — exercise normal precautions)
Elevation
Built across ~19 hills (jebels), ranging 700-1,100 m above sea level
Top Highlights
Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a)
The hilltop heart of ancient Amman, layering the Roman Temple of Hercules, the Umayyad Palace, and a Byzantine church with sweeping views over downtown. Entry 3 JOD (~$4), or free with the Jordan Pass. Open 8AM-7PM in summer; go late afternoon for golden light and cooler air. Allow 1.5-2 hours.
Roman Theatre
A superbly preserved 2nd-century amphitheatre carved into the hillside, seating 6,000 and still used for events. Entry 2 JOD (~$3), included in the Jordan Pass, and it covers the small Folklore and Popular Traditions museums flanking the stage. Open 8AM-7PM; climb to the top row for the view. Allow 1 hour.
Rainbow Street (Jabal Amman)
The city's most walkable strip, lined with cafes, boutiques, and 1920s villas, and home to the Friday-morning Souk Jara market in summer. Free to wander. Come in the evening when locals fill the terraces; grab mint lemonade or knafeh and watch the sunset over the old city. Allow 2-3 hours.
King Abdullah I Mosque
Amman's landmark mosque, crowned by a striking blue mosaic dome and open to non-Muslim visitors outside prayer times. Entry ~2 JOD includes a modest robe for those who need one. Open roughly 8AM-11AM and 12:30PM-2PM, closed Fridays to tourists; women must cover hair. Allow 45 minutes.
The Jordan Museum
The country's premier museum, housing the Neolithic Ain Ghazal statues (among the oldest human figures ever made) and original Dead Sea Scrolls fragments. Entry 5 JOD (~$7), free with the Jordan Pass. Open 9AM-5PM, closed Tuesdays; allow 1.5-2 hours for the well-curated timeline.
Downtown Souks (Al-Balad)
The atmospheric old center packed with gold, spice, and produce souks, historic cafes, and the famous Hashem falafel and Habibah knafeh. Free to explore, best in the morning rush. Worth knowing: climb to the rooftop of a downtown cafe for a free citadel view. Allow a half day with lunch.
Darat al Funun
A calm arts complex on a Jabal al-Weibdeh hillside, with contemporary Arab art galleries, a leafy cafe, and the ruins of a 6th-century Byzantine church in the garden. Free entry. Open 10AM-7PM, closed Fridays; a peaceful escape from the traffic. Allow 1 hour.
Jabal al-Weibdeh
Amman's bohemian hilltop quarter of 1940s-50s architecture, indie cafes, bookshops, and Paris Circle, popular with artists and students. Free to wander, and the best corner of the city for street art and specialty coffee. Best on foot in the late afternoon; pair with a visit to nearby Darat al Funun.
Planned Itinerary
7-Day Amman Itinerary
Arrival & Rainbow Street
Land at Queen Alia International (AMM), about 35 km south, and transfer up into the hills of Amman. Settle into Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh, then spend your first evening on Rainbow Street watching the sunset over the old city. Buy your Jordan Pass online before you fly — it waives the visa fee and covers the Citadel, Roman Theatre, and Jordan Museum.
Airport transfer to central Amman(45 minutes)
Official airport taxis charge a fixed ~20-25 JOD — confirm before getting in; the Sariyah Express bus is ~3.5 JOD, or use Careem
Check in around Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh(45 minutes)
Both hilltop quarters are walkable, central, and full of cafes
Sunset stroll along Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Free; the city's most walkable strip of 1920s villas and cafe terraces, with old-city views from the top
Dinner at Sufra(1.5 hours)
Traditional Jordanian food in a restored villa with a garden terrace; try the galayet bandora and grilled meats, ~15-20 JOD a head
Ancient Amman — Citadel, Theatre & Downtown Souks
Spend the day walking through Amman's layered history, from the Roman and Umayyad ruins on the Citadel hill down into the bustling downtown (Al-Balad). It's largely on foot with one short taxi hop; wear good shoes for the hills. Cover shoulders and knees in the conservative downtown souks.
Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a)(2 hours)
The Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and Byzantine church with sweeping city views; 3 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass. Go earlier to beat the heat
Walk down to the Roman Theatre(1 hour)
The superbly preserved 2nd-century amphitheatre seating 6,000; 2 JOD or Jordan Pass, including the small folklore museums flanking the stage
Lunch at Hashem(1 hour)
The legendary downtown falafel-and-hummus institution — a plate feeds two for just a few dinars, cash only
Explore the Downtown Souks (Al-Balad)(2 hours)
Gold, spice, and produce souks and historic cafes; a hidden-gem tip is climbing to a rooftop cafe for a free Citadel view
Knafeh at Habibah Sweets(30 minutes)
Follow the crowd to the hole-in-the-wall counter for a tray of hot, cheese-filled knafeh nabulsiyeh, under 1 JOD a piece
Museums, the Blue Mosque & the Art Hills
A more relaxed cultural day covering Amman's premier museum, its landmark mosque, and the bohemian hill quarter of Jabal al-Weibdeh, ending with a slow cafe afternoon. Visit the mosque outside prayer times and before it closes to tourists around 2PM; women should carry a scarf to cover their hair.
The Jordan Museum(2 hours)
Home to the 9,000-year-old Ain Ghazal statues and Dead Sea Scrolls fragments; 5 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass, closed Tuesdays
King Abdullah I Mosque(45 minutes)
The blue-mosaic-domed landmark, open to non-Muslims outside prayer times; ~2 JOD includes a robe, closed Fridays to visitors
Lunch at Shams El Balad(1 hour)
A farm-to-table cafe in Jabal al-Weibdeh serving healthy modern Jordanian plates and fresh juices
Darat al Funun(1 hour)
A tranquil hillside arts complex with contemporary Arab galleries, a leafy cafe, and a 6th-century Byzantine church ruin in the garden; free
Relaxed afternoon in Jabal al-Weibdeh & Paris Circle(2 hours)
Wander the 1940s streets, street art, and indie coffee shops; a deliberately unhurried end to the day
Day Trip: Jerash & Ajloun Castle
Head north to one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the world, then on to a hilltop Islamic castle built to fight the Crusaders. Both are covered by the Jordan Pass. It's about 45 minutes to Jerash; hire a driver for the day or take a Careem for flexibility.
Drive to Jerash(45 minutes)
~48 km north; a private driver for the full day runs ~40-60 JOD, far easier than public buses
Jerash Roman ruins(2.5 hours)
The colonnaded Cardo, Oval Plaza, Temple of Artemis, and two theatres; entry 12 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass. Walk through Hadrian's Arch to start
Lunch at Lebanese House (Um Khalil), Jerash(1 hour)
A long-running restaurant famous for its mezze and grills near the ruins
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad)(1.5 hours)
A 12th-century Ayyubid fortress built by Saladin's forces, with commanding views over the Jordan Valley; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Return to Amman for dinner(1 hour)
Back to the city; try Fakhr El-Din for an upscale Jordanian dinner if you want to treat yourself
Day Trip: The Dead Sea
Descend to the lowest point on Earth for the ultimate rest day — floating effortlessly in the mineral-heavy Dead Sea and coating yourself in its famous black mud. It's about an hour's drive down from Amman; a beach club or resort day pass gives you showers, pools, and shade, which you'll want in the heat.
Drive to the Dead Sea(1 hour)
~55 km; the road drops over 1,400 m from Amman's hills to well below sea level
Float in the Dead Sea(1.5 hours)
A day pass at Amman Beach (~25 JOD) or a resort like Hilton/Marriott gives beach access; never shave beforehand and keep the water out of your eyes
Dead Sea mud treatment(45 minutes)
Slather on the mineral-rich black mud, let it dry, then rinse — the classic (free at most beaches) spa ritual
Poolside lunch and rest(1.5 hours)
Resort day passes usually include or sell lunch; relax by the freshwater pools between floats
Sunset over the sea and return(1.5 hours)
The sun setting over the West Bank hills across the water is spectacular before the drive back
Day Trip: Madaba, Mount Nebo & the Baptism Site
A day tracing the region's biblical and Byzantine heritage south and west of Amman: the mosaic city of Madaba, the viewpoint of Mount Nebo where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land, and Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan, the baptism site of Jesus. An easy loop with a driver.
Drive to Madaba(45 minutes)
~35 km south; the 'City of Mosaics' is an easy morning start
St. George's Church & the Madaba Mosaic Map(1 hour)
The 6th-century floor mosaic map of the Holy Land, the oldest surviving; 2 JOD entry
Mount Nebo(1 hour)
The Moses Memorial Church and a panorama over the Jordan Valley to the Dead Sea and, on clear days, Jerusalem; 3 JOD
Lunch at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba(1 hour)
A beautifully restored old house serving mezze and mansaf, Jordan's lamb-and-yogurt national dish
Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas)(1.5 hours)
The UNESCO baptism site on the Jordan River; entry ~12 JOD includes the guided shuttle to the riverbank
Jordanian Cooking & Departure
End with a hands-on taste of Jordan before heading home. A morning cooking class turns the flavors you've been eating into skills you can take with you, then it's last-minute souvenirs and the transfer to the airport. Keep small JOD notes for the taxi and any final purchases.
Cooking class at Beit Sitti(3 hours)
Cook a Jordanian feast — maqluba or mansaf — with local women in a Jabal al-Weibdeh home, ~40 JOD including the meal you make; book ahead
Last-minute souvenir shopping(1 hour)
Pick up Dead Sea products, olive-wood carvings, and Jordanian coffee downtown or on Rainbow Street
Checkout and settle cash bills(30 minutes)
Confirm you have cash for the airport taxi, as many drivers won't take cards
Transfer to Queen Alia International (AMM)(45 minutes)
Allow buffer for the ~35 km drive and airport security; fix the ~20-25 JOD taxi fare in advance
14-Day Amman Itinerary
Arrival & Rainbow Street
Land at Queen Alia International (AMM), about 35 km south, and transfer up into the hills of Amman. Settle into Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh, then spend your first evening on Rainbow Street watching the sunset over the old city. Buy your Jordan Pass online before you fly — it waives the visa fee and covers dozens of sites including Petra.
Airport transfer to central Amman(45 minutes)
Airport taxis are a fixed ~20-25 JOD — confirm first; the Sariyah bus is ~3.5 JOD, or use Careem
Check in around Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh(45 minutes)
Both hilltop quarters are walkable, central, and full of cafes
Sunset stroll along Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Free; 1920s villas, cafe terraces, and old-city views from the top
Dinner at Sufra(1.5 hours)
Traditional Jordanian food on a garden terrace; ~15-20 JOD a head
Ancient Amman — Citadel, Theatre & Downtown Souks
Walk through Amman's layered history, from the Roman and Umayyad ruins on the Citadel hill down into the bustling downtown (Al-Balad). Largely on foot with one short taxi hop; wear good shoes for the hills and cover shoulders and knees in the conservative souks.
Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a)(2 hours)
Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and city views; 3 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass. Go earlier to beat the heat
Walk down to the Roman Theatre(1 hour)
The 2nd-century amphitheatre seating 6,000; 2 JOD or Jordan Pass, plus the folklore museums
Lunch at Hashem(1 hour)
The legendary downtown falafel-and-hummus institution; a few dinars, cash only
Explore the Downtown Souks (Al-Balad)(2 hours)
Gold, spice, and produce souks; climb to a rooftop cafe for a free Citadel view
Knafeh at Habibah Sweets(30 minutes)
Hot cheese-filled knafeh nabulsiyeh, under 1 JOD a piece
Museums, the Blue Mosque & the Art Hills
A more relaxed cultural day covering Amman's premier museum, its landmark mosque, and the bohemian hill quarter of Jabal al-Weibdeh, ending with a slow cafe afternoon. Visit the mosque outside prayer times and before ~2PM; women should carry a scarf.
The Jordan Museum(2 hours)
The Ain Ghazal statues and Dead Sea Scrolls fragments; 5 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass, closed Tuesdays
King Abdullah I Mosque(45 minutes)
The blue-domed landmark; ~2 JOD includes a robe, closed Fridays to visitors
Lunch at Shams El Balad(1 hour)
Farm-to-table modern Jordanian plates in Jabal al-Weibdeh
Darat al Funun(1 hour)
A hillside arts complex with galleries, a leafy cafe, and a Byzantine church ruin; free
Relaxed afternoon in Jabal al-Weibdeh & Paris Circle(2 hours)
1940s streets, street art, and indie coffee shops; an unhurried end to the day
Day Trip: Jerash & Ajloun Castle
Head north to one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the world, then on to a hilltop Islamic castle built to fight the Crusaders. Both are covered by the Jordan Pass. About 45 minutes to Jerash; hire a driver for the day for flexibility.
Drive to Jerash(45 minutes)
~48 km north; a full-day driver runs ~40-60 JOD
Jerash Roman ruins(2.5 hours)
The colonnaded Cardo, Oval Plaza, Temple of Artemis, and two theatres; 12 JOD or Jordan Pass. Start at Hadrian's Arch
Lunch at Lebanese House (Um Khalil), Jerash(1 hour)
Famous mezze and grills near the ruins
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad)(1.5 hours)
A 12th-century Ayyubid fortress with Jordan Valley views; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Return to Amman for dinner(1 hour)
Back to the city; Fakhr El-Din for an upscale Jordanian dinner if you fancy a treat
Day Trip: The Dead Sea
Descend to the lowest point on Earth for a rest day — floating effortlessly in the mineral-heavy Dead Sea and coating yourself in its famous black mud. About an hour down from Amman; a beach club or resort day pass gives showers, pools, and shade.
Drive to the Dead Sea(1 hour)
~55 km, dropping over 1,400 m below sea level
Float in the Dead Sea(1.5 hours)
Day pass at Amman Beach (~25 JOD) or a resort; never shave beforehand and keep water from your eyes
Dead Sea mud treatment(45 minutes)
Slather on the mineral mud, let it dry, then rinse
Poolside lunch and rest(1.5 hours)
Relax by the freshwater pools between floats
Sunset over the sea and return(1.5 hours)
The sun setting over the West Bank hills before the drive back
Day Trip: Madaba, Mount Nebo & the Baptism Site
Trace the region's biblical and Byzantine heritage: the mosaic city of Madaba, the viewpoint of Mount Nebo where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land, and Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan, the baptism site of Jesus. An easy loop with a driver.
Drive to Madaba(45 minutes)
~35 km south; the 'City of Mosaics'
St. George's Church & the Madaba Mosaic Map(1 hour)
The 6th-century mosaic map of the Holy Land; 2 JOD
Mount Nebo(1 hour)
The Moses Memorial Church and a panorama to the Dead Sea; 3 JOD
Lunch at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba(1 hour)
A restored old house serving mezze and mansaf
Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas)(1.5 hours)
The UNESCO baptism site; ~12 JOD includes the shuttle to the riverbank
Day Trip: The Desert Castles of the East
Head into the eastern basalt desert for the Umayyad-era 'desert castles' — hunting lodges and caravan stops from the 8th century, including a UNESCO-listed bathhouse covered in rare frescoes. A quieter, off-the-beaten-path day best done as a loop with a driver.
Drive east to Qasr Kharana(1 hour)
~60 km east of Amman; a well-preserved square caravanserai, 1 JOD
Qusayr Amra(1 hour)
A UNESCO World Heritage bathhouse whose walls are covered in rare 8th-century figurative frescoes; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Lunch in Azraq(1 hour)
Simple local fare in the oasis town before the fort
Azraq Fort & Wetland Reserve(1.5 hours)
The black-basalt fort T.E. Lawrence used in 1917, plus the spring-fed wetland reserve nearby
Return to Amman(1 hour)
Back to the city; pack an overnight bag tonight for the southern loop
King's Highway to Petra via Karak (Night 1)
Begin the trip's centerpiece: the journey south to Petra along the scenic King's Highway, breaking at the great Crusader castle of Karak. Arrive in Wadi Musa (Petra's gateway town) by evening and, if it's running, catch the magical candlelit Petra by Night.
Drive the King's Highway toward Karak(2 hours)
The old caravan route winds past Wadi Mujib canyon; hire a driver or self-drive for the day
Karak Castle(1.5 hours)
A sprawling 12th-century Crusader fortress with vaulted halls and valley views; 2 JOD or Jordan Pass
Lunch in Karak(1 hour)
Local mansaf and mezze in the castle town
Continue to Wadi Musa and check in(1.5 hours)
The rest of the drive south to Petra's gateway town
Petra by Night (Mon/Wed/Thu)(1.5 hours)
The Siq and Treasury lit by 1,500 candles with Bedouin music; ~17 JOD, not covered by the Jordan Pass, check the schedule
Petra — The Rose City in Full (Night 2)
A full day exploring Petra, the Nabataean city carved into rose-red sandstone and one of the New Seven Wonders. Enter through the towering Siq at opening time to reach the Treasury before the crowds, then work deeper into the vast site. Wear sturdy shoes, a hat, and carry plenty of water.
Walk the Siq to the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)(1.5 hours)
Enter at the 6AM opening; the 1.2km gorge opens dramatically onto Petra's most famous facade. Entry is via the Jordan Pass
Street of Facades & the Royal Tombs(2 hours)
Continue past the theatre to the Urn, Silk, and Palace tombs cut into the cliffs
Lunch at the Basin Restaurant(1 hour)
The buffet deep in the site, or carry a packed lunch from Wadi Musa
Climb to the Monastery (Ad-Deir)(2.5 hours)
800+ rock-cut steps to Petra's largest monument; quieter than the Treasury and worth every step
Sunset drink back in Wadi Musa(1.5 hours)
Rest your legs; My Mom's Recipe is a warm local dinner spot in town
Little Petra & Into Wadi Rum (Desert Camp)
A gentler morning at Little Petra, then drive south into Wadi Rum, the towering red-sand desert of Lawrence of Arabia. Explore by 4x4 in the golden afternoon light and spend the night at a Bedouin camp under an extraordinary blanket of stars.
Little Petra (Siq al-Barid)(1.5 hours)
A free, uncrowded Nabataean canyon 15 minutes north of Petra, with a rare painted biclinium ceiling
Drive to Wadi Rum(1.5 hours)
~1.5 hours south to the protected desert; entry 5 JOD or Jordan Pass
4x4 jeep tour of Wadi Rum(3 hours)
Lawrence's Spring, Khazali Canyon petroglyphs, red dunes, and the Um Fruth rock bridge with a Bedouin driver
Sunset over the dunes(1 hour)
Climb a dune for the desert glowing crimson as the sun drops
Bedouin camp dinner and stargazing(2 hours)
Zarb (meat and vegetables slow-cooked underground) at a desert camp, then some of the clearest night skies you'll ever see
Wadi Rum Sunrise & Return to Amman
Wake for a desert sunrise, then make the long drive back north to Amman on the Desert Highway. It's mostly a travel day, so keep the evening light — a relaxed dinner in the city to decompress after the southern loop.
Sunrise over Wadi Rum(1 hour)
The low light on the sandstone massifs is the desert at its most beautiful
Camel ride or final dune walk(1 hour)
A short camel ride with the Bedouin is a fitting last taste of the desert
Drive back to Amman via the Desert Highway(4 hours)
The fast route north (~320 km); break at a roadside rest stop halfway
Check back in and rest(1 hour)
Return to your Amman base and drop the desert dust
Relaxed dinner on Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
An easy evening; Books@Cafe has a terrace and a laid-back vibe
Amman Rest Day & Jordanian Cooking
A deliberate down day in the city after the southern loop. Sleep in, take a hands-on cooking class to learn the dishes you've been enjoying, and spend the rest of the day at an easy pace among Amman's cafes. Nothing strenuous — just good food and rest.
Slow morning and late breakfast(1.5 hours)
A leisurely start; the Weibdeh cafes do excellent Arabic breakfasts
Cooking class at Beit Sitti(3 hours)
Cook maqluba or mansaf with local women in a Jabal al-Weibdeh home, ~40 JOD including the meal; book ahead
Afternoon coffee at Rumi Cafe or Wild Jordan Center(1.5 hours)
Wild Jordan's terrace has one of the best downtown-and-Citadel views in the city
Optional hammam or spa(1.5 hours)
A traditional Turkish-style hammam is a great way to unwind; several operate in the city
Relaxed dinner of your choice(1.5 hours)
Revisit a favorite, or try Fakhr El-Din for a special meal
Day Trip: Umm Qais & the Green North
A final excursion to Jordan's lush northwest corner: the Greco-Roman ruins of Umm Qais (ancient Gadara), perched on a plateau with views across three countries — the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the Jordan Valley. Cooler, greener, and far quieter than the south.
Drive to Umm Qais(1.5 hours)
~120 km northwest; a full-day driver is the simplest option
Umm Qais (Gadara) ruins(2 hours)
Black-basalt Roman streets, a colonnade, and theatres with a panorama over the Sea of Galilee; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Lunch at Umm Qais Resthouse (Romero)(1 hour)
A terrace restaurant right at the ruins with the region's best view over the valley
Village walk or a local cooperative visit(1.5 hours)
Community tourism initiatives here run beekeeping and cycling experiences among the olive groves
Return to Amman for a farewell dinner(1.5 hours)
A last evening in the capital before departure
Last Souvenirs & Departure
A gentle final morning for last-minute shopping before the airport. Keep small JOD notes for the taxi and any final purchases, and leave a comfortable buffer for the ~35 km drive out to Queen Alia International.
Morning coffee and a last Rainbow Street walk(1 hour)
A quiet last look over the old city
Last-minute souvenir shopping(1.5 hours)
Dead Sea products, olive-wood carvings, and Jordanian coffee downtown or on Rainbow Street
Checkout and settle cash bills(30 minutes)
Keep cash for the airport taxi, as many drivers won't take cards
Transfer to Queen Alia International (AMM)(45 minutes)
Fix the ~20-25 JOD taxi fare in advance and allow buffer for security
21-Day Amman Itinerary
Arrival & Rainbow Street
Land at Queen Alia International (AMM), about 35 km south, and transfer up into the hills of Amman. Settle into Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh, then spend your first evening on Rainbow Street watching the sunset over the old city. Buy your Jordan Pass online before you fly — it waives the visa fee and covers dozens of sites including Petra.
Airport transfer to central Amman(45 minutes)
Airport taxis are a fixed ~20-25 JOD — confirm first; the Sariyah bus is ~3.5 JOD, or use Careem
Check in around Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh(45 minutes)
Both hilltop quarters are walkable, central, and full of cafes
Sunset stroll along Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Free; 1920s villas, cafe terraces, and old-city views from the top
Dinner at Sufra(1.5 hours)
Traditional Jordanian food on a garden terrace; ~15-20 JOD a head
Ancient Amman — Citadel, Theatre & Downtown Souks
Walk through Amman's layered history, from the Roman and Umayyad ruins on the Citadel hill down into the bustling downtown (Al-Balad). Largely on foot with one short taxi hop; wear good shoes for the hills and cover shoulders and knees in the conservative souks.
Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a)(2 hours)
Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and city views; 3 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass. Go earlier to beat the heat
Walk down to the Roman Theatre(1 hour)
The 2nd-century amphitheatre seating 6,000; 2 JOD or Jordan Pass, plus the folklore museums
Lunch at Hashem(1 hour)
The legendary downtown falafel-and-hummus institution; a few dinars, cash only
Explore the Downtown Souks (Al-Balad)(2 hours)
Gold, spice, and produce souks; climb to a rooftop cafe for a free Citadel view
Knafeh at Habibah Sweets(30 minutes)
Hot cheese-filled knafeh nabulsiyeh, under 1 JOD a piece
Museums, the Blue Mosque & the Art Hills
A more relaxed cultural day covering Amman's premier museum, its landmark mosque, and the bohemian hill quarter of Jabal al-Weibdeh, ending with a slow cafe afternoon. Visit the mosque outside prayer times and before ~2PM; women should carry a scarf.
The Jordan Museum(2 hours)
The Ain Ghazal statues and Dead Sea Scrolls fragments; 5 JOD or free with the Jordan Pass, closed Tuesdays
King Abdullah I Mosque(45 minutes)
The blue-domed landmark; ~2 JOD includes a robe, closed Fridays to visitors
Lunch at Shams El Balad(1 hour)
Farm-to-table modern Jordanian plates in Jabal al-Weibdeh
Darat al Funun(1 hour)
A hillside arts complex with galleries, a leafy cafe, and a Byzantine church ruin; free
Relaxed afternoon in Jabal al-Weibdeh & Paris Circle(2 hours)
1940s streets, street art, and indie coffee shops
Day Trip: Jerash & Ajloun Castle
Head north to one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the world, then on to a hilltop Islamic castle built to fight the Crusaders. Both are covered by the Jordan Pass. About 45 minutes to Jerash; hire a driver for the day for flexibility.
Drive to Jerash(45 minutes)
~48 km north; a full-day driver runs ~40-60 JOD
Jerash Roman ruins(2.5 hours)
The colonnaded Cardo, Oval Plaza, Temple of Artemis, and two theatres; 12 JOD or Jordan Pass. Start at Hadrian's Arch
Lunch at Lebanese House (Um Khalil), Jerash(1 hour)
Famous mezze and grills near the ruins
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad)(1.5 hours)
A 12th-century Ayyubid fortress with Jordan Valley views; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Return to Amman for dinner(1 hour)
Fakhr El-Din for an upscale Jordanian dinner if you fancy a treat
Day Trip: The Dead Sea
Descend to the lowest point on Earth for a rest day — floating effortlessly in the mineral-heavy Dead Sea and coating yourself in its famous black mud. About an hour down from Amman; a beach club or resort day pass gives showers, pools, and shade.
Drive to the Dead Sea(1 hour)
~55 km, dropping over 1,400 m below sea level
Float in the Dead Sea(1.5 hours)
Day pass at Amman Beach (~25 JOD) or a resort; never shave beforehand and keep water from your eyes
Dead Sea mud treatment(45 minutes)
Slather on the mineral mud, let it dry, then rinse
Poolside lunch and rest(1.5 hours)
Relax by the freshwater pools between floats
Sunset over the sea and return(1.5 hours)
The sun setting over the West Bank hills before the drive back
Day Trip: Madaba, Mount Nebo & the Baptism Site
Trace the region's biblical and Byzantine heritage: the mosaic city of Madaba, the viewpoint of Mount Nebo where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land, and Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan, the baptism site of Jesus. An easy loop with a driver.
Drive to Madaba(45 minutes)
~35 km south; the 'City of Mosaics'
St. George's Church & the Madaba Mosaic Map(1 hour)
The 6th-century mosaic map of the Holy Land; 2 JOD
Mount Nebo(1 hour)
The Moses Memorial Church and a panorama to the Dead Sea; 3 JOD
Lunch at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba(1 hour)
A restored old house serving mezze and mansaf
Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas)(1.5 hours)
The UNESCO baptism site; ~12 JOD includes the shuttle to the riverbank
Day Trip: The Desert Castles of the East
Head into the eastern basalt desert for the Umayyad-era 'desert castles' — hunting lodges and caravan stops from the 8th century, including a UNESCO-listed bathhouse covered in rare frescoes. A quieter, off-the-beaten-path day best done as a loop with a driver.
Drive east to Qasr Kharana(1 hour)
~60 km east of Amman; a well-preserved square caravanserai, 1 JOD
Qusayr Amra(1 hour)
A UNESCO bathhouse covered in rare 8th-century figurative frescoes; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Lunch in Azraq(1 hour)
Simple local fare in the oasis town
Azraq Fort & Wetland Reserve(1.5 hours)
The basalt fort T.E. Lawrence used in 1917, plus the spring-fed wetland reserve
Return to Amman(1 hour)
Pack an overnight bag tonight for the southern loop
King's Highway to Petra via Karak (Night 1)
Begin the southern centerpiece: the journey to Petra along the scenic King's Highway, breaking at the great Crusader castle of Karak. Arrive in Wadi Musa by evening and, if it's running, catch the magical candlelit Petra by Night.
Drive the King's Highway toward Karak(2 hours)
The old caravan route past Wadi Mujib canyon; driver or self-drive
Karak Castle(1.5 hours)
A sprawling 12th-century Crusader fortress; 2 JOD or Jordan Pass
Lunch in Karak(1 hour)
Local mansaf and mezze in the castle town
Continue to Wadi Musa and check in(1.5 hours)
The rest of the drive to Petra's gateway town
Petra by Night (Mon/Wed/Thu)(1.5 hours)
The Siq and Treasury by 1,500 candles; ~17 JOD, not covered by the Jordan Pass
Petra — The Rose City in Full (Night 2)
A full day exploring Petra, the Nabataean city carved into rose-red sandstone. Enter through the Siq at opening time to reach the Treasury before the crowds, then work deeper into the vast site. Wear sturdy shoes, a hat, and carry plenty of water.
Walk the Siq to the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)(1.5 hours)
Enter at 6AM; the 1.2km gorge opens onto Petra's most famous facade. Entry via the Jordan Pass
Street of Facades & the Royal Tombs(2 hours)
Past the theatre to the Urn, Silk, and Palace tombs
Lunch at the Basin Restaurant(1 hour)
The buffet deep in the site, or a packed lunch from Wadi Musa
Climb to the Monastery (Ad-Deir)(2.5 hours)
800+ steps to Petra's largest monument; quieter than the Treasury
Dinner in Wadi Musa(1.5 hours)
My Mom's Recipe is a warm local dinner spot in town
Little Petra & Into Wadi Rum (Desert Camp)
A gentler morning at Little Petra, then drive south into Wadi Rum, the towering red-sand desert of Lawrence of Arabia. Explore by 4x4 in the golden afternoon light and spend the night at a Bedouin camp under an extraordinary blanket of stars.
Little Petra (Siq al-Barid)(1.5 hours)
A free, uncrowded Nabataean canyon 15 minutes north of Petra, with a rare painted ceiling
Drive to Wadi Rum(1.5 hours)
~1.5 hours south; entry 5 JOD or Jordan Pass
4x4 jeep tour of Wadi Rum(3 hours)
Lawrence's Spring, Khazali Canyon petroglyphs, red dunes, and the Um Fruth rock bridge
Sunset over the dunes(1 hour)
Climb a dune for the desert glowing crimson
Bedouin camp dinner and stargazing(2 hours)
Zarb cooked underground, then some of the clearest night skies you'll ever see
Wadi Rum Sunrise & Return to Amman
Wake for a desert sunrise, then make the long drive back north to Amman on the Desert Highway. Mostly a travel day, so keep the evening light for a relaxed dinner in the city to decompress.
Sunrise over Wadi Rum(1 hour)
The low light on the sandstone massifs is the desert at its most beautiful
Camel ride or final dune walk(1 hour)
A short camel ride with the Bedouin as a last desert taste
Drive back to Amman via the Desert Highway(4 hours)
The fast route north (~320 km); break at a roadside rest stop
Check back in and rest(1 hour)
Return to your Amman base and drop the desert dust
Relaxed dinner on Rainbow Street(1.5 hours)
Books@Cafe has a terrace and a laid-back vibe
Amman Rest Day & Jordanian Cooking
A deliberate down day in the city after the first southern loop. Sleep in, take a hands-on cooking class, and spend the rest of the day at an easy pace among Amman's cafes. Nothing strenuous — just good food and rest.
Slow morning and late breakfast(1.5 hours)
The Weibdeh cafes do excellent Arabic breakfasts
Cooking class at Beit Sitti(3 hours)
Cook maqluba or mansaf with local women in a Jabal al-Weibdeh home, ~40 JOD; book ahead
Afternoon coffee at Wild Jordan Center(1.5 hours)
Its terrace has one of the best downtown-and-Citadel views in the city
Optional hammam or spa(1.5 hours)
A traditional Turkish-style hammam to unwind
Relaxed dinner of your choice(1.5 hours)
Revisit a favorite, or Fakhr El-Din for a special meal
Day Trip: Umm Qais & the Green North
An excursion to Jordan's lush northwest corner: the Greco-Roman ruins of Umm Qais (ancient Gadara), perched on a plateau with views across the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the Jordan Valley. Cooler and greener than the south.
Drive to Umm Qais(1.5 hours)
~120 km northwest; a full-day driver is simplest
Umm Qais (Gadara) ruins(2 hours)
Black-basalt Roman streets and theatres with a panorama over the Sea of Galilee; 3 JOD or Jordan Pass
Lunch at Umm Qais Resthouse (Romero)(1 hour)
A terrace restaurant at the ruins with the region's best valley view
Village walk or a local cooperative visit(1.5 hours)
Community initiatives run beekeeping and cycling among the olive groves
Return to Amman(1.5 hours)
Pack tonight for the second, deeper southern loop tomorrow
To Dana Biosphere Reserve (Night 1)
Begin a slower, nature-focused southern loop at the Dana Biosphere Reserve, Jordan's largest and most spectacular, tumbling from high sandstone cliffs down to the desert lowlands. Arrive in the stone village of Dana by afternoon, perched on the canyon rim, and watch the sun set over the valley from a reserve guesthouse.
Drive from Amman to Dana(3 hours)
~200 km south via the Desert Highway; a driver or rental car works
Check in to a Dana village guesthouse(45 minutes)
The RSCN Dana Guesthouse and local lodges cling to the canyon edge with valley-facing terraces
Short rim walk around Dana village(1.5 hours)
The 15th-century Ottoman stone village and easy viewpoint trails along the reserve boundary
Sunset over Wadi Dana(1 hour)
The layered canyon glows red and gold as the light drops toward the Rift Valley
Dinner at the guesthouse(1.5 hours)
Home-style Jordanian cooking with reserve-grown ingredients; a quiet, star-filled evening
Hiking Dana & the Feynan Wilderness (Night 2)
A full day on foot in the reserve, following the famous Wadi Dana trail as it descends nearly 1,000 m from the highland village through changing ecosystems toward the desert. Spend the night off-grid at the candlelit, solar-powered Feynan Ecolodge — one of the region's great slow-travel experiences.
Wadi Dana Trail descent(5 hours)
The classic ~14km RSCN trail from Dana village down to Feynan; arrange a guide and a luggage transfer through the reserve, ~15-25 JOD
Trailside picnic lunch(45 minutes)
Rest in the shade of an acacia; watch for ibex and soaring raptors on the cliffs
Arrive at Feynan Ecolodge(1 hour)
An award-winning off-grid lodge run with the local Bedouin community; settle in and rest
Bedouin tea and sunset walk(1.5 hours)
Share sweet tea with a local Bedouin family and walk out for the desert sunset
Candlelit dinner and rooftop stargazing(2 hours)
The solar lodge dims to candlelight after dark; the rooftop offers astonishing star fields
Feynan to Aqaba & the Red Sea (Night 1)
Leave the wilderness and drive south to Aqaba, Jordan's laid-back Red Sea port and only coastline. After the ruins and desert, this is a change of tempo — palm-lined corniche, warm sea, and fresh seafood. Settle in and get your bearings along the waterfront.
Transfer from Feynan to Aqaba(2.5 hours)
A reserve 4x4 shuttle out to the road, then south to the coast
Check in and lunch on the corniche(1.5 hours)
Aqaba's seafront hotels put the beach and dive shops within reach
Aqaba Fort (Mamluk Castle) & Ayla ruins(1.5 hours)
The 16th-century fort and the remains of Ayla, the first Islamic city outside Arabia; fort covered by the Jordan Pass
Sunset on the Red Sea corniche(1 hour)
Look across the gulf to Egypt, Israel, and Saudi Arabia all at once
Seafood dinner at Ali Baba(1.5 hours)
A long-running Aqaba restaurant for grilled Red Sea fish and mezze
Red Sea Diving & Coral Gardens (Night 2)
A full day underwater on the Red Sea, whose coral reefs and wrecks are among the most accessible in the world — right off the shore south of the city. Whether you dive or snorkel, the marine life here is extraordinary. A dedicated day for the sea.
Morning dive or snorkel at the Japanese Garden reef(3 hours)
A vibrant shallow reef in the South Beach dive zone; a two-tank guided dive runs ~50-70 JOD with gear, snorkeling far less
Lunch at a South Beach dive club(1 hour)
Beach-club kitchens serve fresh fish between dives
Afternoon dive at the Cedar Pride wreck or Tala Bay(2.5 hours)
The photogenic sunken freighter draped in soft coral, or the reefs off Tala Bay
Rinse off and rest at the beach(1 hour)
Down-time on the sand after a day in the water
Dinner on the waterfront(1.5 hours)
Formosa or a corniche grill for a relaxed seafood evening
Aqaba Rest & Sea Day (Night 3)
A genuine rest day by the Red Sea before the journey back north. Take a lazy glass-bottom boat trip, laze on the beach, and enjoy Aqaba's relaxed, tax-free port vibe. Nothing demanding — the built-in decompression before the final stretch.
Glass-bottom boat trip(1.5 hours)
See the reefs and the Cedar Pride wreck without getting wet; boats leave from the marina, ~15-20 JOD
Beach morning and swim(2 hours)
The warm, calm gulf is ideal for an easy float; many hotels have private beach sections
Lunch and a lazy afternoon(2 hours)
No agenda — read, nap, or wander the tax-free shopping streets
Sunset felucca or corniche stroll(1.5 hours)
A final Red Sea sunset with the mountains of four countries on the horizon
Relaxed dinner in Aqaba(1.5 hours)
An early night before the long drive north tomorrow
North to Wadi Mujib & the Dead Sea (Night 1)
Drive north up the Dead Sea Highway along the Rift Valley, stopping for the thrilling Siq Trail through Wadi Mujib — the 'Grand Canyon of Jordan,' a wet hike wading and scrambling up a river gorge. End the day floating in the Dead Sea at a resort. Note the Siq Trail is seasonal, typically open April to October.
Drive up the Dead Sea Highway(3 hours)
The scenic Rift Valley route north from Aqaba along the Israeli border
Wadi Mujib Siq Trail (seasonal)(2.5 hours)
A wet canyon hike wading up the river gorge, ~23 JOD; open roughly Apr 1-Oct 31, closed in winter for flash-flood risk — swap in a Mujib viewpoint stop if closed
Late lunch at the Dead Sea(1 hour)
Refuel at a resort or beach restaurant after the canyon
Check in and float at the Dead Sea(1.5 hours)
A final, effortless float and mud treatment as the light softens
Sunset dinner overlooking the sea(1.5 hours)
The West Bank hills silhouette across the water
Dead Sea Morning & Back to Amman
A slow final morning at the Dead Sea — one last float and a spa treatment — before the short drive back up to Amman for your farewell evening. A gentle, restful bookend to a long and varied journey.
Morning float and spa treatment(2 hours)
A Dead Sea mineral spa or a last mud-and-float session at the resort
Leisurely brunch by the pool(1.5 hours)
No rush; savor the last of the Rift Valley calm
Drive back to Amman(1 hour)
The ~55 km climb back up to the capital
Last souvenir shopping in the city(1.5 hours)
Dead Sea products, olive-wood carvings, and Jordanian coffee downtown or on Rainbow Street
Farewell dinner at Fakhr El-Din(1.5 hours)
An elegant final Jordanian feast in a restored villa
Last Morning & Departure
A gentle final morning before the airport. Keep small JOD notes for the taxi and any last purchases, and leave a comfortable buffer for the ~35 km drive out to Queen Alia International.
Morning coffee and a last Rainbow Street walk(1 hour)
A quiet last look over the old city
Any final packing and souvenirs(1 hour)
Grab anything you spotted earlier in the trip
Checkout and settle cash bills(30 minutes)
Keep cash for the airport taxi, as many drivers won't take cards
Transfer to Queen Alia International (AMM)(45 minutes)
Fix the ~20-25 JOD taxi fare in advance and allow buffer for security
Travel Tips
Visa & Entry
Buy the Jordan Pass Before You Arrive
This is the country's best-kept money-saving secret: bought online before arrival (from ~70 JOD), the Jordan Pass waives the 40 JOD entry visa fee if you stay 3+ nights, AND covers entry to Petra plus 40+ sites including the Amman Citadel, Roman Theatre, and Jordan Museum. Buy it first, then arrive and get the visa stamped free.
transport
Fix the Airport Taxi Fare or Take the Sariyah Bus
Queen Alia (AMM) is ~35 km out. Official airport taxis charge a fixed ~20-25 JOD to central Amman — confirm before getting in. The cheaper Sariyah Express airport bus runs to the 7th Circle / Tabarbour roughly every 30-60 minutes for about 3.5 JOD. Careem (the local ride-hailing app) also works well.
Insist on the Meter in City Taxis
Amman's yellow taxis are cheap and metered, but drivers may 'forget' to switch it on for foreigners. Say 'addad' (meter) as you get in, or use Careem/Uber for a fixed fare. Most in-city rides cost only 2-4 JOD; carry small notes as drivers rarely have change.
Local Customs
Dress Modestly & Plan Around Friday
Amman is relatively liberal but conservative in the downtown souks — cover shoulders and knees, and women should carry a scarf for mosques. Friday is the Muslim holy day: many shops and offices close in the morning and downtown is quiet, so save museums and Rainbow Street for the afternoon.
Safety
Safe City, but Don't Drink the Tap Water
Amman is very safe for travelers, including solo women using normal caution, and street harassment is uncommon. The main health gotcha is water: stick to bottled or filtered water, as tap water is heavily chlorinated and not recommended for drinking.
Budget
Tip Modestly and Carry Cash
A 10% tip is appreciated in restaurants (check if service is already added). Card payment is common in malls and hotels but downtown souks, small eateries, and taxis are cash-only, so keep small JOD notes handy. Legendary Hashem restaurant downtown feeds two for just a few dinars.
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