Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Hokkaido (17 Questions Answered)
I've been to Hokkaido three times — twice in winter, once in summer. Each trip raised new questions that the standard guides didn't answer. Here's everything I've learned, organized by what people actually want to know.
Getting There
Q: Should I fly or take the Shinkansen?
Fly. Unless you're already in northern Honshu, the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Sapporo takes about 4 hours and costs 23,000+ JPY. Flights from Tokyo Haneda or Narita take 1.5 hours and cost 7,000-15,000 JPY on budget carriers (Peach, Jetstar, Skymark) when booked ahead. New Chitose Airport (CTS) is 40 minutes from Sapporo by rapid train (1,150 JPY).
The Hokkaido Shinkansen only reaches Hakodate currently (the Sapporo extension opens later). If you're visiting Hakodate first, the Shinkansen from Tokyo (4 hours, 23,430 JPY) makes sense — it's scenic and comfortable.
Q: Is the Japan Rail Pass worth it for Hokkaido?
Depends on your itinerary. The full JR Pass (7-day: 50,000 JPY) covers all JR Hokkaido trains plus the JR ferry to Miyajima. It pays for itself if you're doing Tokyo-Hokkaido round trip.
For Hokkaido-only travel, the Hokkaido Rail Pass is better value: 5-day (20,000 JPY) or 7-day (26,000 JPY). Covers all JR Hokkaido trains including limited express to Asahikawa, Furano, Otaru, Noboribetsu, and Hakodate. Worth it if you're making 3+ long-distance train trips.
Q: Do I need a rental car?
In summer, yes — unless you're only visiting Sapporo and Otaru. Furano, Biei, eastern Hokkaido (Shiretoko, Akan), and most countryside attractions are poorly served by trains. Rental from 6,000-8,000 JPY/day. International Driving Permit required. Roads are excellent with English GPS.
In winter, it depends on your comfort level. Winter driving requires snow tires (included by rental companies) and experience with icy roads. For Niseko, take the bus from Sapporo (2,600 JPY, 2.5 hours). For Sapporo-Otaru-Noboribetsu, the train is fine.
Skiing
Q: Niseko vs Furano vs Rusutsu — which resort?
Niseko: The most famous, best infrastructure, most international. Four interconnected resorts. The powder is legendary but so are the prices and crowds (peak season: late December-February). The village has the best après-ski dining in Asia.
Furano: 60% of Niseko's prices, comparable powder quality, much fewer people. The town has more local character. Less English spoken. My pick for a second Hokkaido ski trip.
Rusutsu: Best tree skiing. Quieter than both alternatives. Less international food scene but excellent on-mountain facilities. Good for families.
All three have excellent powder. The difference is mainly price, crowd level, and dining options.
Q: How much does a ski trip to Niseko cost?
Per day budget:
Lift pass: 6,500 JPY
Equipment rental: 5,000-8,000 JPY
Accommodation: 15,000-60,000 JPY (massive range)
Food: 3,000-8,000 JPY
Transport from Sapporo: 2,600 JPY one-way by bus
Realistic total: 30,000-80,000 JPY/day ($190-510). The variable is accommodation — Niseko during Christmas week vs. early December can be 3-4x different.
Onsen
Q: I have tattoos. Can I use onsen?
Complicated. Many traditional onsen still ban tattoos. However, the situation is improving, especially in Hokkaido which has more international visitors.
Options for tattooed visitors:
Private onsen rooms (kashikiri): Bookable at most ryokan for 2,000-4,000 JPY per hour. You get the pool to yourself.
Tattoo-friendly onsen: Some newer establishments welcome tattoos. Check tattoo-friendly.jp for a database.
Tattoo cover patches: Available at convenience stores and pharmacies. Small tattoos can be covered with waterproof bandages.
Dai-ichi Takimotokan in Noboribetsu has a mixed-gender pool requiring swimsuits — tattoos aren't an issue there.
Q: What's the onsen etiquette?
Non-negotiable rules:
Wash THOROUGHLY at the shower stations before entering any pool
No swimsuits (except designated mixed pools)
Keep your small towel out of the bath water (put it on your head)
No phones, no cameras
Tie long hair up
Gender-separated (men's and women's sections)
Rinse off after using sulfur-heavy springs
Food
Q: What's Seicomart and why does everyone mention it?
Seicomart is Hokkaido's local convenience store chain — it only exists here (plus a few in Ibaraki and Saitama). It consistently wins "best convenience store in Japan" surveys, beating 7-Eleven and Lawson.
The hot food counter (hot chef) serves fresh katsu sandwiches, croquettes, and bento boxes made in-store. The Hokkaido milk is creamier than mainland brands. The prices are slightly lower than national chains. It's also the only convenience store open in some rural areas.
A full day of Seicomart eating costs under 2,000 JPY and is genuinely good food.
Q: What's the one meal I shouldn't miss?
Kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) at Nijo Market in Sapporo for breakfast. Arrive at 7AM. Get the uni-ikura don (sea urchin and salmon roe). About 2,500 JPY. The uni melts on your tongue with a sweetness and ocean-brine flavor that you simply cannot get anywhere outside Hokkaido.
Second choice: miso ramen at Sumire in Sapporo. The broth is intensely rich with a lard layer that keeps it scorching.
Practical
Q: How many days do I need?
Minimum: 3 days — Sapporo (1 day), Otaru (half day), one excursion (Noboribetsu onsen or Furano).
Ideal: 5-7 days — adds Furano-Biei, Hakodate, and a deeper Sapporo exploration.
Extended: 10+ days — adds eastern Hokkaido (Shiretoko, Akan, Kushiro marshes), or a full ski trip at Niseko.
Q: Is Hokkaido expensive?
Moderate by Japanese standards. Cheaper than Tokyo for accommodation and food. More expensive than rural Honshu.
Budget daily total: 8,000-12,000 JPY ($51-77) — hostel, convenience store meals, train transport.
Mid-range: 15,000-25,000 JPY ($96-160) — business hotel, restaurant meals, car rental.
Comfort: 30,000-50,000 JPY ($190-320) — ryokan with onsen, kaiseki dinner, ski pass.
Q: What about WiFi and connectivity?
Excellent in cities. Hotels and cafes have free WiFi. Train stations have JR-WEST WiFi. Convenience stores offer free WiFi. In rural areas and mountains, connectivity drops. Rent a pocket WiFi device from the airport (500-1,000 JPY/day) for reliable coverage.
Q: Any safety concerns?
Hokkaido is very safe. The main risks are weather-related:
Bears in eastern Hokkaido (Shiretoko) — follow park ranger instructions, carry bear spray
Altitude/weather changes on mountain trails Travelers who enjoy this often also love Kyoto.
Crime is effectively zero for tourists.
Quick Reference
Detail
Info
Airport
New Chitose (CTS) — 40 min to Sapporo
Currency
Japanese Yen (JPY)
Language
Japanese (limited English outside ski resorts)
Visa
90 days visa-free for most Western passports
Best winter months
December-February
Best summer months
July-August
Rail pass
Hokkaido Rail Pass: 5-day 20,000 JPY
Ski season
December-April
Lavender season
Mid-July
Must-eat
Miso ramen, kaisendon, soft-serve
Hokkaido rewards repeat visits because it's functionally two different destinations. Three visits in and I still haven't made it to Shiretoko or the Daisetsuzan mountains. There's always a reason to come back. For a different perspective, consider Osaka as well. Travelers who enjoy this often also love Okinawa.
