Carlos Mendes moved from Rio de Janeiro to Sao Paulo in 2008 for a job in music production. We met at Coffee Lab in Vila Madalena — a specialty cafe he considers the best in South America — to talk about why tourists skip SP and why they shouldn't.
Every single time. "You left the beaches? The mountains? For what — concrete and traffic?" And I understand the reaction. Rio is gorgeous. Objectively stunning. But Rio is a postcard. SP is a novel. After 18 years, I'm still finding new chapters.
Rio's beauty is nature — mountains, ocean, Christ the Redeemer. SP's beauty is human — what 22 million people from 60 different cultures have built, cooked, painted, and performed. The city has 12,000 restaurants. World-ranked museums. A nightlife that goes until sunrise. And a coffee culture that rivals Melbourne and Tokyo.
You don't come to SP for scenery. You come for the energy.
What's the biggest misconception tourists have?
That it's dangerous and ugly. Both of these are oversimplifications that do the city a massive disservice.
Is SP dangerous? It can be, in specific situations. But the tourist areas — Paulista, Vila Madalena, Jardins, Pinheiros, Liberdade — are safe during the day and reasonable at night if you use Uber door-to-door. The rule is simple: keep your phone in your pocket (not in your hand) when walking. Use a crossbody bag. Don't wear flashy jewelry. Standard megacity precautions.
Is it ugly? Parts of it are industrial and sprawling, sure. But Batman Alley (Beco do Batman) in Vila Madalena is covered floor-to-ceiling in graffiti that belongs in a museum. MASP — the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo — is a brutalist masterpiece suspended on red pillars with Raphael and Van Gogh inside. The Octavio Frias de Oliveira Bridge lit up at night is one of the most stunning pieces of urban engineering in the world. And Ibirapuera Park is 158 hectares of green space designed by Oscar Niemeyer.
SP is not ugly. You just have to know where to look.
Where should tourists stay?
Vila Madalena or Pinheiros. No question. These are the creative, walkable neighborhoods with bars, restaurants, galleries, and cafes within strolling distance. Jardins is more upscale — designer shops and fine dining. Paulista is central and functional.
Avoid staying near the airport (Guarulhos, 25 km northeast) or in the central area around Luz station and Se Cathedral — these are fine during the day but less comfortable at night.
Talk to me about the food.
Oh, this could take hours.
Start with the basics: SP has 12,000+ restaurants representing 60 cuisines. The Japanese food in Liberdade — the largest Japanese community outside Japan — is excellent. Sushi combos for $25-40 BRL at neighborhood spots. The weekend market has 300+ stalls selling takoyaki ($10-15 BRL), mochi, and ramen.
For the Brazilian experience: go to a local luncheonette for "prato feito" (plate of the day) — rice, beans, meat, salad, maybe farofa — for $15-25 BRL. That's $3-5 USD for a full meal. This is how Paulistanos eat on weekdays.
The mortadella sandwich at Bar do Mane in the Mercado Municipal ($35 BRL) is a rite of passage. It's enormous — feeds two easily. The building itself is 1933 Art Deco with stained glass windows. Beautiful space.
For a splurge: A Casa do Porco on Rua dos Arouches is ranked in the World's 50 Best. The pork tasting menu ($200-300 BRL) is inventive and extraordinary. D.O.M. by Alex Atala ($400+ BRL tasting menu) pioneered Amazonian ingredients in fine dining.
But honestly? The $20 BRL pastel de bacalhau (codfish pastry) at the Mercado Municipal is the thing I eat every week.
Nightlife reputation — deserved or exaggerated?
Deserved. SP has arguably the best nightlife in South America, but you have to understand the clock.
Dinner reservations: 9-10PM. This is not late by SP standards. This is normal.
Bars fill up: 11PM-midnight. Don't show up at 9PM expecting atmosphere.
Clubs open: midnight-1AM. Peak: 3-4AM. If you walk into a club at 10PM, it will be empty and the DJ will be testing sound levels.
Vila Madalena is the epicenter. Bar do Leo for cocktails ($15-25 BRL), Canto da Ema for forro dancing ($20 BRL cover), and dozens of bars along Rua Aspicuelta that spill onto the sidewalk.
Jardins has the upscale venues. Dress code matters — no flip-flops or shorts.
Cover charges at clubs: $30-80 BRL. Many clubs include one drink with the cover.
What about coffee?
Brazil produces more coffee than any other country, and SP has the cafes to match.
Coffee Lab — where we're sitting — was founded by Brazil's first Q-grader. An espresso is $12-18 BRL. A pour-over flight ($20-30 BRL) lets you taste single-origin beans from Minas Gerais, Bahia, and Cerrado.
Isso e Cafe in Pinheiros ($8-15 BRL) is more casual but equally serious about beans. Suplicy Cafes does a great cortado.
The barista culture here rivals Melbourne and Tokyo. Don't order Starbucks. Please.
What do tourists get wrong?
Three things.
First: they skip SP entirely and go straight to Rio. This is like visiting the US and only going to Miami. You'd miss New York.
Second: they don't learn any Portuguese. English is not widely spoken outside upscale hotels and restaurants. "Obrigado" (thank you, male) or "Obrigada" (female), "Quanto custa?" (how much?), and "A conta, por favor" (the bill please) will get you far. Download Google Translate's offline Portuguese pack.
Third: they don't understand Avenida Paulista on a Sunday. The 2.8 km boulevard closes to cars every Sunday and becomes a massive pedestrian promenade — street performers, food vendors, families, cyclists. MASP is right there (admission $60 BRL, free on Tuesdays). The Mirante do SESC rooftop has free panoramic views. It's the best free experience in the city.
Your perfect SP day?
Morning: Coffee Lab pour-over. Walk to Batman Alley while the light is good for photos.
Late morning: MASP. The glass easel display system is unique — paintings float on crystal frames. Raphael, Rembrandt, Monet, Van Gogh, Portinari. Allow 2-3 hours.
Lunch: Mercado Municipal for a mortadella sandwich and a pastel de bacalhau. Walk through the tropical fruit section — try jabuticaba, cupuacu, or graviola.
Afternoon: Ibirapuera Park. Rent a bike. Visit the MAM (Museu de Arte Moderna) inside the park.
Evening: Dinner at a Vila Madalena restaurant at 9PM. Then bar-hop along Rua Aspicuelta until you end up at Canto da Ema for forro at midnight.
Total cost for that day: maybe $200-250 BRL ($40-50 USD). For a world-class city experience.
Are you ever going back to Rio?
I go to Rio for beach weekends. Three hours by car. The mountains and ocean are still beautiful.
But I live in SP because living requires more than a view. It requires restaurants and music and art and people and coffee and the specific energy that comes from 22 million humans being creative at the same time.
SP doesn't photograph well. It doesn't fit on a postcard. But it's the most alive city I've ever lived in, and I've lived in three countries.
For practical planning, read our Sao Paulo FAQ for first-timers and our specialty coffee trail guide. If you're exploring South America, Rio de Janeiro is the natural pairing, and Buenos Aires offers a completely different urban energy.
Come for a week. Stay longer than you planned. Everyone does.
