Hokkaido is the only place I've visited twice in different seasons and felt like I'd been to two different countries. Winter Hokkaido is a frozen wonderland of powder snow, steaming onsen, and comfort food that borders on spiritual. Summer Hokkaido is rolling lavender fields, coastal drives, and seafood eaten outdoors in pleasant 25°C sunshine.
Same island. Genuinely different experiences.
Most of Japan has moderate seasonal variation. Hokkaido is extreme. Winter temperatures drop to -7°C in Sapporo and -20°C in the mountains, with up to 6 meters of snowfall annually. Summer peaks at 25-28°C with low humidity — the most comfortable summer weather in all of Japan.
This means certain activities are season-locked. You can't ski in July. You can't see lavender in January. Planning around the season isn't optional — it defines the trip.
Cold. Properly cold. Sapporo averages -3°C in January. Niseko and mountain areas are colder. Snowfall is constant and heavy — Niseko receives an average of 15 meters annually. The snow is dry, light, and famously powdery due to cold Siberian air crossing the Sea of Japan.
Skiing and snowboarding. Niseko is the headline — four interconnected resorts on Mount Niseko-Annupuri with some of the world's best powder conditions. Lift passes run about 6,500 JPY/day. The village has excellent restaurants and bars. Other options: Rusutsu (less crowded, great tree skiing), Furano (cheaper, excellent powder), and Tomamu (family-friendly, ice village).
Niseko's reputation draws a massive international crowd — Australian, Asian, and European skiers pack the slopes from late December through February. Accommodation during peak season hits 30,000-60,000 JPY/night. Book 3-6 months ahead. Budget alternative: stay in Kutchan town, 10 minutes by free shuttle.
Sapporo Snow Festival. Held in early February, this is Hokkaido's biggest event. Over 200 snow and ice sculptures — some building-sized — line Odori Park and Susukino. Night illumination makes the ice sculptures glow. Free entry. About 2 million visitors over 7 days, so book accommodation far in advance.
Onsen season. Nothing beats soaking in a hot outdoor bath (rotenburo) while snow falls on your head. Noboribetsu Onsen (1.5 hours from Sapporo by limited express train) is the most famous — sulfurous hot springs fed by the volcanic Jigokudani (Hell Valley). Day-use onsen from 1,000-2,000 JPY. Onsen hotels from 8,000 JPY/night with multi-pool complexes.
Other excellent onsen: Jozankei (40 minutes from Sapporo), Toyako (Lake Toya), and Tokachigawa (plant-based "moor" springs).
Winter food. This is when Hokkaido food is at its most comforting. Miso ramen with butter and corn tastes like medicine for the cold. King crab season peaks. Genghis Khan lamb grills warm you from the inside. Convenience store nikuman (steamed meat buns) become a daily habit.
Skiers, onsen lovers, snow festival visitors, comfort food obsessives.
20-28°C with low humidity — Japan's most pleasant summer. While Tokyo and Osaka melt at 35°C with 80% humidity, Hokkaido feels almost European. Evenings cool to 15-20°C. Brief rainy period in June-early July (lighter than mainland Japan's tsuyu season).
Lavender fields. Farm Tomita in Furano is Hokkaido's summer icon — rolling hills of purple lavender peaking in mid-July. Free entry. The lavender soft-serve (300 JPY) is mandatory. Ningle Terrace nearby has artisan craft shops in log cabins.
Biei Blue Pond. An artificial pond with ghostly submerged birch trees glowing cobalt blue from natural aluminum particles. Free entry. The color shifts with light and season. Best in early morning or late afternoon. Night illumination in winter is stunning, but summer offers the trees in full leaf.
Furano-Biei Scenic Drives. The rolling patchwork hills between Furano and Biei — wheat, lavender, potatoes, and flower fields in alternating colors — are Hokkaido's summer postcard. Rent a car from Sapporo (6,000-8,000 JPY/day). The drive is 2 hours, but you'll stop constantly.
Eastern Hokkaido. The Shiretoko Peninsula (UNESCO World Heritage) is accessible June-September. Brown bears fish for salmon in rivers. The Shiretoko Five Lakes boardwalk offers bear-country hiking with guided access. Akan National Park has pristine crater lakes and unique marimo (spherical algae).
Otaru Canal. The gas-lit canal warehouses are atmospheric year-round, but summer allows evening strolls without frostbite. The sushi on Sushiya-dori is excellent any season.
Seafood. Uni (sea urchin) season peaks in summer. Hakodate morning market's live squid sashimi is available year-round but the atmosphere at 5AM in summer is more pleasant than at 5AM in -5°C.
Flower lovers, road trippers, wildlife watchers, families, anyone fleeing mainland Japan's summer heat.
| Factor | Winter (Dec-Mar) | Summer (Jun-Sep) |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | -7 to 2°C | 18-28°C |
| Main draw | Skiing, onsen, Snow Festival | Lavender, road trips, wildlife |
| Food highlight | Crab, ramen, jingisukan | Uni, melon, corn, soft-serve |
| Transport | Train + bus (roads risky) | Rental car essential |
| Accommodation cost | High (Niseko peak) | High (lavender peak July) |
| Crowds | Moderate (int'l skiers) | High (domestic tourists) |
| Photography | Snow, illuminations, icicles | Flowers, rolling hills, blue skies |
Winter: Thermal base layers, waterproof outer layer, insulated boots with grip, gloves, warm hat, hand warmers (available at every convenience store for ~100 JPY). Don't underestimate the cold.
Summer: Light clothing, sunscreen, hat, rain jacket for June. A light fleece for evenings. Hiking shoes if visiting Shiretoko. Mosquito repellent for rural areas.
I marginally prefer winter Hokkaido. There's something about the combination of powder snow, steaming onsen, and a bowl of miso ramen at -5°C that creates a full-body comfort experience. Summer Hokkaido is gorgeous and pleasant, but winter Hokkaido is transformative. Travelers who enjoy this often also love Kyoto. For more, check out our FAQ guide to Hokkaido.
That said — if you can only come once and skiing isn't your thing, summer is the safer bet. The lavender fields are magical, the driving is easy, and you can cover more ground without weather complications. If you're exploring the region, Osaka offers a compelling comparison. For a different perspective, consider Okinawa as well.
Or come twice. Hokkaido earns it.
