Your Petra Questions, Answered: 14 Things You Need to Know Before the Siq
Petra is one of the most visited archaeological sites in the world, and one of the least intuitive to plan. The ticketing is expensive and confusing. The site covers 264 square kilometers of rocky desert. The walking is brutal. And the difference between a good Petra experience and a great one comes down to decisions you make before you even arrive.
Here are the questions I get asked most.
Tickets & The Jordan Pass
Q: Is the Jordan Pass worth buying?
A: Almost always yes. The math:
Jordan Pass Petra Explorer (2-day): JOD 75 (~$106)
Without pass: Petra 2-day ticket JOD 55 + visa on arrival JOD 40 = JOD 95
The pass saves you JOD 20 and includes entry to 40+ other Jordanian sites (Jerash, Wadi Rum, Ajloun Castle). It also lets you skip the visa payment line at the airport. Buy at jordanpass.jo before your trip.
The only scenario where it doesn't pay: if you already have a visa or are from a visa-free country AND you're only doing 1 day at Petra (JOD 50 ticket). But you shouldn't do 1 day at Petra.
Q: Can I do Petra in one day?
A: You can, but you'll see maybe 40% of the site and walk 15+ km in a desperate rush. The most common tourist mistake at Petra is doing it in one day.
One day: Siq, Treasury, Street of Facades, and maybe the Royal Tombs. You'll miss the Monastery (the 850-step climb takes 90+ minutes round trip), the High Place of Sacrifice, and any of the backcountry trails.
Two days: Day 1 covers the Siq, Treasury, main basin, and Royal Tombs. Day 2 covers the Monastery climb and the High Place of Sacrifice. This is the sweet spot.
Three days: Adds Little Petra (Siq al-Barid), the backcountry trails, and time to revisit the Treasury in different light. The 3-day Petra Expert pass is JOD 80 — only JOD 5 more than the 2-day.
The 2-day ticket is JOD 55. The 3-day is JOD 60. Spending an extra JOD 5 for a whole additional day at one of the world's most remarkable sites is possibly the best $7 you'll ever spend.
Q: What time should I arrive?
A: 6AM. Gates open at 6AM year-round. The Siq and Treasury in early morning light, with almost nobody else around, is a completely different experience from the 10AM tour-bus crowd version. By 8AM, the first big groups arrive. By 10AM, the Treasury plaza has 200+ people.
If you can only do one early start, make it your first day. The Siq at dawn is transcendent.
Getting There
Q: How do I get from Amman to Petra?
A: Three options:
JETT Bus: Daily from Amman's 7th Circle station at 6:30AM. JOD 11 one-way, 3 hours. Return bus departs Petra at 5PM. Book at jett.com.jo. Simple and cheap.
Rental car: From JOD 25/day. The Desert Highway is faster (3 hours). The King's Highway is scenic (5 hours) with stops at Madaba (mosaics), Mount Nebo (Moses's viewpoint), and Kerak Castle. The King's Highway drive is one of Jordan's great road trips.
Private driver: From JOD 60-80 one-way. Arranged through your Amman hotel. Worth it if you want stops along the King's Highway without driving.
Q: Where should I stay?
A: Wadi Musa — the town adjacent to Petra's entrance. Everything is within 5 minutes of the Visitor Centre.
Budget
Price
Examples
Budget
JOD 15-30/night
Valentine Inn, Rocky Mountain Hotel
Mid-range
JOD 40-80/night
Petra Guest House (closest to entrance), Petra Moon
Luxury
JOD 120-250/night
Movenpick Resort Petra (right at the gate)
The Petra Guest House is literally next to the entrance — you can be at the Siq in 5 minutes from your room. That extra 20 minutes of sleep matters when your alarm is set for 5:30AM.
Inside Petra
Q: How much walking is involved?
A: A lot. A full day at Petra involves 15-20 km on uneven, rocky terrain.
Route
Distance (return from gate)
Gate to Treasury (via Siq)
2.4 km
Gate to Monastery
8 km
Gate to High Place of Sacrifice
4 km
Full day covering main sites
15-20 km
Wear broken-in hiking shoes. Not sandals, not new shoes, not fashion sneakers. The terrain is rocky, sandy, and steep in places. I've seen people in flip-flops on the Monastery stairs and they were not having a good time.
Q: How much water should I carry?
A: Minimum 3 liters per person for a full day. More in summer. There are Bedouin stalls inside Petra selling water and snacks, but prices are inflated (JOD 2-3 for a bottle vs. JOD 0.50 in town). Carry your own and top up at stalls if needed.
Sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses are essential. The site has almost no shade, and summer temperatures reach 32-38°C.
Q: Should I ride the horses/donkeys/camels?
A: This is a loaded question. The short answer: probably not.
Animal welfare organizations (SPCA Jordan, PETA) have documented widespread mistreatment of working animals at Petra. Horses pulling carriages through the Siq are often overworked in extreme heat. Donkey handlers on the Monastery stairs push exhausted animals up 850 steps daily.
The rides also aren't cheap: horse to the Treasury JOD 5-10 "tip" (supposedly included in your ticket but the handlers demand payment), donkey to the Monastery JOD 15-25.
If you do ride, agree on the total price including tip before mounting. But the walk is more rewarding — the Siq and the Monastery stairs are part of the experience, not obstacles to be avoided.
Q: Is Petra by Night worth it?
A: It's a separate JOD 17 ticket, runs Monday/Wednesday/Thursday at 8:30PM, and takes 2 hours. You walk through the candlelit Siq to the Treasury illuminated by 1,500 candles while Bedouin musicians play.
Honest assessment: it's atmospheric and genuinely moving. It's also somewhat staged and the seating is uncomfortable (ground mats). Arrive 30 minutes early for the best position facing the Treasury. Don't photograph with flash — it ruins the atmosphere for everyone.
Worth doing once? Yes. Essential? No. Your daytime visits are more important.
Practical Questions
Q: Is Petra safe?
A: Very safe. Jordan is one of the safest countries in the Middle East. The main "dangers" are physical: dehydration, sunburn, and sore legs. The aggressive handlers offering animal rides are annoying but not threatening.
The town of Wadi Musa is safe to walk around at night. People are friendly and English is widely spoken in the tourist area.
Q: What should I eat in Wadi Musa?
A: Wadi Musa has decent restaurants:
Al-Wadi Restaurant: Best mansaf (lamb and rice with yogurt sauce — Jordan's national dish) in town. JOD 8-12.
The Cave Bar (inside Petra Guest House): A bar built in a 2,000-year-old Nabataean tomb. Beer for JOD 6. The setting alone is worth a drink.
Local falafel stands: JOD 1-2 for a sandwich. Multiple spots around the main intersection.
Inside Petra, the Basin Restaurant near the Monastery trail start serves buffet lunch (JOD 15-20). Overpriced for the quality, but it's the only sit-down option inside the site.
Q: When is the best time to visit?
A: March to May and September to November. Temperatures are 18-28°C — warm enough for comfortable walking, cool enough to avoid heat exhaustion. The spring wildflowers (March-April) in the wadis are beautiful.
Summer (June-August) is brutally hot — 35-38°C with no shade. Winter (December-February) is mild but rain can close trails and the Siq occasionally floods (rare but real).
Q: Any other sites near Petra?
A: Little Petra (Siq al-Barid): 9 km north of Petra. A smaller, free version of the main site with carved facades and painted Nabataean frescoes. Worth 1-2 hours.
Wadi Rum: The desert 1.5 hours south. Lawrence of Arabia territory — red sand, sandstone monoliths, Bedouin camps. Combined Petra + Wadi Rum trips are common and excellent.
Dana Nature Reserve: An eco-lodge and hiking area between Petra and the Dead Sea. The Wadi Dana trail (14 km) is one of Jordan's best hikes.
