Personal travel stories and narratives
StoriesI came to a car-free island for whale sharks. The whale sharks were gone for the season. What I found instead — bioluminescent plankton lighting up the shallows at midnight — was better.
A rifle-shot boom, a twenty-story wall of blue ice, and a boardwalk full of held breath. Here is what a day at Perito Moreno really feels like — and how to make it yours in El Calafate.
StoriesA travel journalist who listens to Mahler discovers why a $5 tip and a honky-tonk barstool can change your relationship with music.
StoriesI came to Bacalar for two nights and stayed four. The lagoon does that to people.
StoriesI expected chaos, petty crime, and the best pizza on earth. I got all three, plus a city that made me rethink everything I thought I knew about Italy.
StoriesA travel writer's encounter with fog, ferries, and the strange serenity of Italy's deepest lake — where even the bad weather feels like a gift.
Sunset on the Malecón, a panga gliding into the bay, the smell of grilled fish and salt — this is what an evening in Puerto Vallarta actually feels like, and why it stays with you long after the flight home.
StoriesI turned left at the blue wall. Then right at the blue wall. Then left at another blue wall. Three hours later, I was hopelessly, wonderfully lost in Morocco's most photogenic city.
Stories5:30 AM on the crater rim, 5°C, a blanket around my shoulders, and then the sun broke the horizon and lit up 260 square kilometers of African wilderness below.
StoriesI went to Addis for Lucy. I stayed for the injera, the altitude headaches, and the slowest, most intentional cup of coffee I've ever had.
Haad Rin roars until sunrise while Sri Thanu drums the sun down in silence. Both are the same island — and the smart traveller sees both.
StoriesA travel writer arrives in Santa Fe expecting turquoise jewelry and tourist traps. Instead, the desert light rewires something fundamental about how she sees color, art, and the spaces between things.