Manali Through Local Eyes: A Conversation with Tenzin, Mountain Guide and Cafe Owner
Tenzin Dorje runs a small cafe in Old Manali and guides treks in the Kullu Valley. He moved here from Dharamsala 15 years ago, drawn by the mountains and the Beas River. We talked over three cups of his homemade ginger tea while rain drummed on the tin roof.
What draws people to Manali over other Himachal towns?
"Manali is the gateway. To Ladakh, to Spiti, to Rohtang, to the really high Himalayas. is a hill station — nice views, colonial buildings. Dharamsala is spiritual. Manali is where the adventure starts.
But it's also the cafe culture. Old Manali created something unique — this mix of Israeli backpackers, Indian honeymooners, Himalayan culture, and hippie tradition. Where else can you eat shakshuka for breakfast, trek to a waterfall, and hear live sitar music at dinner?"
What's changed in 15 years?
"Everything and nothing. The Atal Tunnel opened in 2020 and changed the game — suddenly Lahaul-Spiti is accessible year-round. Traffic increased. Hotels multiplied. Mall Road got more commercial.
But Old Manali is still Old Manali. The cafes change names sometimes, but the energy stays. The apple orchards still bloom in spring. The Manalsu stream still floods in monsoon. And the mountains — the mountains don't care about trends.
What worries me is the garbage. Rohtang Pass used to be pristine. Now tourists leave trash everywhere. The permit system (INR 550, only 1,200 vehicles daily) helped, but it's not enough. If you visit Rohtang, carry your trash back down. Please."
Best time to visit?
"Depends what you want. May-June is peak — Rohtang is open, Solang is busy, weather is perfect (10-25°C). But it's also the most crowded and expensive.
My favorite is September-October. Monsoon just ended, everything is impossibly green, the Beas is running strong for rafting (INR 1,000-1,500), and the crowds have thinned. Room rates drop 30-40%.
December-February for snow. Solang has skiing (INR 500-1,500 for gear and basic instruction). But roads can close, buses get delayed, and if you're not prepared for -10°C at passes, you'll be miserable.
Avoid July-August. Monsoon brings landslides, road closures, and the winding mountain roads become genuinely dangerous."
Where do you eat?
"Not at the tourist places, honestly. The best food in Manali is at three places most visitors don't know:
The dhaba behind the taxi stand near Mall Road — no name, just 'dhaba.' Their rajma chawal and roti is INR 100 and better than any restaurant version.
For non-veg, the tandoori chicken place on the road to Vashisht. Whole chicken for INR 400. They marinate it for 24 hours.
At my cafe, of course — but I'm biased. We do thukpa and momos the Tibetan way. The soup base takes 4 hours. INR 80-120.
For tourist cafes, Lazy Dog is genuinely good. Their banana pancakes deserve the reputation. And Drifters on Thursday nights has live music that's sometimes surprisingly excellent."
Most overrated thing in Manali?
"The Mall Road evening walk. Everyone says 'walk the Mall Road.' It's a traffic-clogged commercial street with chain stores and overpriced restaurants. Walk along the Beas River instead. Or walk through Old Manali's village lanes — apple orchards, stone houses, actual mountain scenery.
Also, Solang Valley on weekends. It becomes a parking lot with queues for every activity. Go on a weekday morning. Same paragliding, same views, 20% of the crowd."
Most underrated?
"The Atal Tunnel day trip. People drive through the tunnel, take a selfie, and drive back. Wrong approach. Go through the tunnel and drive to Sissu village — 30 minutes past the tunnel exit. There's a waterfall, a Tibetan monastery, and the Lahaul landscape is like Mars. Completely different from the Kullu Valley. Lunch at a dhaba in Sissu. Drive back through the tunnel. That's a proper day trip.
Also, Vashisht hot springs. Free, ancient, and the temple above the springs is beautiful. Most tourists skip it because it's not 'exciting.' But soaking in natural sulfur water at 2,000 meters after a trek — that's the reward."
Safety concerns?
"Roads. The number one risk in Manali is road accidents. Mountain roads are narrow, winding, and often damaged. Don't hire unlicensed drivers. Don't let your taxi driver race. And if it's raining hard — stay put. The road to Rohtang in rain is genuinely dangerous.
Altitude at Rohtang (3,978m) can cause mild altitude sickness — headache, nausea. Drink water, avoid alcohol the night before, and don't run around at the top. Ascend slowly.
For trekking — never go alone on unfamiliar trails. Hire a guide (INR 1,000-2,000/day). The weather changes in minutes at altitude. I've seen clear skies turn to hailstorms in 20 minutes on the Hampta Pass trail."
If someone had 5 days, what's the plan?
"Day one: Arrive, settle into Old Manali, afternoon at Hadimba Temple (free, the 1553 cedar forest temple), evening walk along the Manalsu stream.
Day two: Solang Valley — paragliding (INR 1,500-3,000), zorbing, cable car. Go on a weekday. Back by 4 PM.
Day three: Rohtang Pass or Atal Tunnel day trip. Apply for permit online 2 days before (INR 550). Full day.
Day four: Morning trek to Jogini Falls from Vashisht (3 km up, moderate). Afternoon soak at Vashisht hot springs. Evening at a live music cafe.
Day five: River rafting on the Beas (INR 1,000-1,500, seasonal May-Jun and Sep-Oct). Afternoon free. Last sunset from Old Manali."
Final thought?
Manali is the starting point for the legendary highway to Leh-Ladakh.
"Manali has a problem — it's becoming too popular for its own infrastructure. The roads can't handle peak season traffic. The garbage situation needs work. The commercialization of Mall Road is relentless.
But at 6 AM, when you walk to the Beas River before anyone else is awake, and the snow peaks are turning pink, and the only sound is water and wind — Manali is still the place it's always been. A valley that makes you forget whatever you were worried about.
Come in September. Come on a weekday. Come quietly."
